My Family and the Tensas
James Martin Willhite,
Jr.
Madison Coordinator Note: This article by James Martin Willhite, Jr. is one of the most interesting I have ever
read. It is an outstanding example of “living off the land.” Although James
Martin’s home was just south of the Madison Parish line, most of his adventures
were up the Tensas River in Madison. Among the many exciting stories is
probably the only eye-witness account of the murder of Norman Frisby by Orlando Flowers. “Jimmie” Willhite
died in 2006 and is buried in Tallulah. His obituary can be read by clicking here.
RPS (dicksevier@gmail.com) August 2009.
For more interesting historical information on the Willhite family see Rosemary
Willhite Ford’s blog site, The Locals – a book about family and place.
RPS April 2021.
Chapter 12 — Oliver
the Trapper
Chapter 1
Getting Settled
This is a short chapter about the Tensas River Wildlife Refuge and how it related to one family. It begins in 1933 and the events
leading up to 1935 are a story within itself. I will begin with the first time
I saw what was to become my home for the rest of my childhood and young adult
life.
January 6, 1935, Jim and Etta Willhite
finished moving the last load of their belongings and their nine
children from White's Ferry, which is about seven miles north of West Monroe,
LA to Flowers Landing, which is about ten miles northwest of
Newellton, LA. Etta and six of the nine children had moved a few
months earlier and Derwood, Oliver and I had stayed behind to take care of what
was left of our belongings.
At his time I was a tall, skinny, wild eyed eight year
old and the whole world, and all that was in it, was one continuous fairytale.
For the past couple of years I had listened to the old folks tell tall tales
about huge buck deer, as big as cows, bear that weighed
six hundred pounds, wild turkeys that stood shirt pocket high and wild hogs that could shear a person's leg off with one vicious blow. Buffalo fish that
weighed forty pounds and alligators ten feet long. We were assured we would see
all of this when we got to the Tensas woods. I could hardly wait to see it all
myself.
January 6, 1935, was a cold, cloudy miserable day with occasional
light rain. The gravel road ended about a mile and a half
from our house and we got stuck twice trying to get home.
When we finally arrived at what was to be my home for many
years, there was a roaring fire in a 55 gallon drum we used for a heater and Mother had a big hot pot of Irish stew on the stove. After eating
a lions share of hot food
and getting warm by the heater I was one tired eight year old. I almost fell
into bed and was asleep by the time my head hit the pillow.
When I woke
up the next morning I could tell it was beginning to get daylight. I started to
get out of bed and found that the bed, floor, and the whole room was covered with a half inch of snow. I put on all the
clothes I could find and went downstairs. Derwood was already up and adding
wood to the heater. I went outside to see what I could see.
What I saw
was a far cry from what I expected. For over a year we had been told that we
would live in a two story house when we moved to Tensas. I had visualized a
fancy two story home like the ones you see on big ranches and plantations.
Well, it was two story alright. It had two rooms
upstairs. It was built with mill run oak and sweet gum lumber and there were no
battens over the cracks on the walls. The roof was made of rough oak boards
that had warped and curled up on the sides to a point that you could see the
sky through the cracks.
I walked to
the edge of the woods (which was about twenty five yards from the house) to
look for game. I saw nothing. I walked to the other side of the house and went
a short distance into the woods and stood a long time (fifteen minutes). I
still didn't see any game. By then I was getting cold so I went back into the
house. Derwood asked, " Where have you
been?" I told him I had been hunting on both sides of the house and did
not see a single deer, bear, wild hog or anything—not even a wild turkey.
Looking back on it now I know it must have been amusing to him but he didn't
laugh nor make fun of me. Being the kind of person he was, he sat me down and patiently
explained that game didn't come near peoples' houses. If you want to see game
you have to go deep into the big woods and hunt them. I was very {missing words} the big woods someone else would
have already killed all of the game and I would never have a chance to hunt the
big animals.
A few weeks
later Dad came in from his trap run and said there was a large bunch of wild
hogs using {?} in the Blueline
Break, Ridge Lake area. He said the next day he, Derwood and Oliver would take
the dogs and try to get some fresh pork. I asked if I could go with them. Dad
said " No". I insisted that I had never been
hog hunting and I really wanted to go. Dad still said no. When I awoke the next
morning I could. hear Dad, Derwood, and Oliver moving
around downstairs. I put on my clothes and went down to make one final plea to
go with them. Dad started to say no again when Derwood said if he would let me
go he would take care of me and see that I didn't get hurt. Dad said, "boy you are only eight years old. You are too little to be
running around in those big woods." Then he said to Derwood, "I will
let him go, but if you let him get hurt you will answer to your Mama."
Derwood said again "I will take care of him."
When we left
the house the sky was turning pale in the east. I knew it would soon be
daylight. We loaded the dogs into the boat and paddled up the Tensas River
about two miles and landed the boat on the Frisby
Bend side of the river. We went over the river hill and started walking west
toward the lower end of the Blueline Break. What we
saw was almost beyond imagination, especially to an eight year old kid. There
stood the biggest trees I had ever seen. There were Oak and Sweet Gum trees
that were six feet in diameter and looked like they were well over a hundred
feet tall. Some of these giant trees had limbs that were as big as most of the
largest trees I had ever seen.
We walked
around the lower end of the Blueline Break and
started up the back side toward ridge Lake. What we saw there was even more
impressive. As we continued along the side of the break we started seeing huge
cypress trees that were twice as big as the Gum and Oak trees had already seen.
By the time we were a few hundred yards up the Break these gigantic cypress
trees were so thick they looked as if they could have been planted by some
prehistoric people. I asked Derwood how these trees could get so large. He
explained that this was virgin timber that had never been cut since the world
began. All of this happened sixty one years ago and at times I can still close
my eyes and visualize those majestic trees I saw the first time I went into the
big woods of the Tensas.
When we were
several hundred yards up the break the dogs bayed off to our left in a thicket.
We slipped up close and eased into the thicket where we could see the hogs.
When we started into the thicket Derwood told me to stay close to him and keep
quiet. I said OK. What he didn't know was I was sticking to him like a leech. I
wasn't going to let one of the big boars slice my legs off. There were about
fifteen hogs in the group. The dogs were holding them close. Dad picked out
three nice gilts he wanted to kill and pointed out to Derwood and Oliver which
ones to shoot. When Dad said shoot! they shot, the
bunch broke and a big sow came out by us. Oliver started to shoot her but Dad
said no" Afterward Dad explained we had three hogs on the ground and
didn't need any more meat. Then he said never kill any more game than you need
to eat. If everyone did this there would always be game to hunt. Dad field
dressed the three hogs and headed home.
This ended
my first trip into the big woods of the Tensas and my first lesson in wildlife
conservation. I was only eight years old at this time. I have spent most of my
life on or around the vast wildlife reserve. It has been a wonderful and
exciting life with the fondest of memories.
Chapter 2
Buffalo Fish
This story
continues from the day Dad, Oliver, Derwood and I went hog hunting and killed
three hogs. Dad continued running his traps every day and all of the kids
except O.D. and Nita (my oldest brother and sister) and the three babies went
to school.
Dad had not
sold any fur since before Christmas and had about fifty prime coon hides and
some other fur on hand. A fur buyer came by the house one day and asked Mother
if Dad had any fur for sale. She said he had a lot of hides but she was not
sure he wanted to sell yet. The buyer asked Mother to tell Dad he would be back
the next day and make him a good price for the hides.
Dad stayed
home and met the with the fur buyer. He knew how much the hides were worth
because he had a price list from F.C. Taylor in St. Louis, MO and Sears Roebuck
in Chicago, IL.
When the fur
buyer arrived he and Dad had a cup of coffee and got down to business. Three
hours and two pots of coffee later Dad sold the hides to the buyer. Dad later
said he might have gotten more for the hides by shipping them but he needed the
money then to buy material to build hoop nets for the buffalo run that would
soon come. A couple days later, Dad and Oliver went to Jonesville, LA and
bought a truck load of hoop net material.
After that
Dad would run the traps every day. When he got home and stretched his hides he would
knit on his nets until bedtime. When the trapping season was over he had
knitted several nets. Mother also knew how to knit nets and she taught Nita and
O.D. how. In all they knitted about fifteen nets.
Even though
a lot of things was going on such as clearing land,
preparing the land for a garden, set out cabbage and onion sets in the garden,
most of the conversation around the supper table was centered around the
buffalo run. I could hardly wait to see if I could see any fish. Saw none.
Once, after looking into water for a long time and not seeing any fish, I told
Derwood I thought everyone was wasting their time making all those nets. That I
had spent a lot of time watching the water and had not seen a single forty
pound fish. Derwood said, "It is not time to catch the buffalo fish. Wait
until the rains come and the river rises, then you will see more buffalo fish
than you can ever imagine. Tensas River has millions of them and you will see
them when the time comes.
Dad hooped
and hung the nets. He, O.D. and Oliver fired up the tar, tarred the nets and
hung them up to dry. Dad said, when the rains come we will be ready. Dad,
Oliver and Derwood spent the next few days clearing out net sets along the
river banks. Dad built a huge 8x8x8x ft. live box and floated it with two dry
logs. He also made a large dipnet with a handle about
ten feet long.
Finally the
rains came. It poured down for two days and nights. Tensas River rose ten feet
almost overnight. Dad waited until the river crested and started to fall. Then
he set out the nets. At first he didn't catch many fish. The first day he
caught about two hundred pounds. That was a lot of fish to me but Dad seemed to
be disappointed. The river continued to fall and Dad changed net sets several
times. During this time he was catching two to three hundred pounds of fish per
day. He put them in the live box until he had about one thousand pounds, then
he carried them to the market.
Soon the
rains came again and Dad caught more and more fish. First it was four hundred,
then six, then eight until by the middle of the running season he was catching
a thousand pounds per day. Every chance I had I went to the landing and waited
for Dad and others to come in from raising the nets to see if they caught a
forty pound buffalo. It wasn't until the latter part of the running season that
they finally caught a forty pounder. Within the next few weeks they caught
several forty and even a couple fifty pounders.
The big
woods of the Tensas and the river itself had again lived up to my wildest
expectation. In this short time I had seen the giant trees, the wild hogs and
now I had seen the huge forty pound buffalo fish. As seen through the eyes of
this wide eyed eight year old, the big woods of the Tensas had to be the most
wonderful place on earth.
Chapter 3
Catching Catfish
By the
middle of May, 1935, the buffalo run was slowing down, the water level in
Tensas River had already fallen to low water and then started rising again.
There was a slow current going upstream. The water was clear instead of being
muddy like it had been all spring. I heard Dad tell Mother the back water was
taking over the river and the buffalo run was over. He said the river was dead
and he was going to take the nets up and start on something else.
This upset
me very much. I was eight years old and I thought if there was no more buffalo
to be caught, all of the fish in the river must have left and if the river was
dead then it may never be any fish in it.
I ran
outside to find Derwood to ask him what this all meant. I found him, Oliver and
O.D. clearing land at the back side of the new ground. When I approached him he
asked, now what? I explained what Dad said about there not being any more
buffalo fish to catch and also about the river being dead. Derwood sat me down
on a log and said Dad didn't mean the buffalo were dead or had left the river.
What he meant was they were no longer going up stream where they could be
easily caught in the hoop nets. As for the river, it is not dead either. When a
body of water has no current it is considered as dead water. I assure you
millions of buffalo are still in the river and when the back water leaves the
Tensas River will again have current flowing and it will be very much alive. I
was greatly relieved. I was so afraid we had lost our beautiful river I had
learned to love so well.
Dad took up
his hoop nets, dried them and put them away. He went to town and bought two
boxes of trotline material. He and Mother made about ten trotlines, each of
which was long enough to reach across the river. I knew a little about
trotlines. I knew you put the lines out, put hooks on them, baited them and the
catfish would try to get the bait and get caught. What I didn't know was, what kind of bait he was going to use and where was he
going to find enough to bait all those hooks. A couple days later I found out.
Dad built
two dipnets. They were about three feet in diameter.
He used half inch hardware cloth for webbing. They were thin, disk like nets
with long handles. The first time I saw them used I was amazed. Dad, Oliver,
Derwood, John A. (a brother two years older than me) and I, had walked into the
big woods about a mile and half to a big cypress break. When we arrived at the
edge of the break we could see several schools of small grentel
piping in the break.
We waded out
to one of the schools and Dad slipped his net under it and quickly lifted it up
fast. I was astonished at the number of small grentel
he caught in just that one dip. There must have been several hundred of them.
We waded from one school to the other until we had two five gallon cans full of
catfish bait.
When we
returned home, Dad, Oliver and Derwood set the trot lines out and baited them.
The next morning they got up early to raise the lines. When they returned to
the landing, John A. and I were there to see how many fish they caught. To my
surprise they had a half boat load of catfish. Dad said they had about three
hundred pounds. They put the fish in the live box and covered it with poultry
wire to keep them from jumping out. I asked Derwood if they caught any forty
pounders. He said they did not, but they caught several that weighed over
twenty pounds. Dad said, we will catch plenty forty
pounders before this season is over. They are in this river and I will catch
them."
Dad was
right, By the end of the trotline season he caught
thousands of pounds of catfish, many of them weighed forty pounds and more.
Thus the big woods of the Tensas and the Tensas River had again proved its
greatness. To this starry eyed eight year old, it was
truly a land of milk and honey.
Chapter 4
Catfish and Frogs
The catfish
season in the Tensas River was relatively short when compared to the buffalo
season. On a good year it lasted four to six weeks. When I speak of a season I
mean a period of time when what you are fishing, or hunting for is most
plentiful or is easiest to catch. In 1935 the catfishing
season was over well before the first of July. When it was over Dad took up his
trotlines, dried them, and put them away until another year.
During the
months of May and June nothing was going on with the big woods or the Tensas
River except the catfishing which didn't take up very
much time. That gave Dad some time to work on the house. He put battens on the
outside walls and also fixed some of the holes in the roof.
Dad came
home from town one day and said he thought he would try to catch some bull
frogs. He said Mr. Hugo, who owned Hugo's Market said he would pay fourteen
cents per pound for all the frogs we could catch.
Now this
frog hunting thing didn't sound very interesting to me. I had a run in with a
big frog a couple years before and I didn't want to go back through that again.
I was playing in the garden while Mother picked some snap beans. I found a huge
toad frog. I picked it up and turned it over so I could see its' belly. It
squirted a stream of water as big around as a pencil straight into my face, all
in my hair, all over the front of my shirt and in my eyes. I threw that critter
as far as I could and ran to Mother screaming and crying at the top of my
voice. She took me into the house and washed me and put some dry clothes on.
Derwood heard all of the commotion and came inside to see what happened. Mother
explained what happened. Derwood said, "Well,
if you had kept your mouth open you would not have gotten the mess in your
face." I hated him for at least thirty minutes.
Dad bought
two pair of frog grabs. I had never seen frog grabs before. They looked like
huge crawfish claws and were spring loaded. They had a trigger that snapped the
jaws shut when you hit something with it. At first I was deathly afraid of frog
grabs. Dad made a cypress handle for each pair of grabs. The handle was about
eight feet long and had a paddle on one end. He fastened the grabs to the other
end. Then he, Oliver and Derwood started practicing catching things with the
grabs. They soon found that two corn cobs made a perfect target to practice on.
On their
first frog hunt Dad and Oliver left the house about three o'clock in the
afternoon. They took frog grabs, three burlap sacks, a carbide headlight and a
small lunch. Dad said he wanted to hunt all the way to Fool River. In order to
do so he would have to be well up the Tensas River before dark or he could not
get back before daylight the next day.
When
daylight came I woke up, woke John A. up and asked if he thought Dad and Oliver
had made home yet. He said if you want to know, get up and go see, I'm going
back to sleep. When I got up to see that Oliver was not in his bed, I went
downstairs and Dad was not in his bed. I went to the river bend and the boat
was not at the landing. I ran back to the house to tell John A. They were still
not back. Derwood woke and asked what all the racket
was about. I told him Dad and Oliver had not come home and I was afraid they
were lost in the Big Woods. He explained, it was
twelve miles from here to Fool River. They probably didn't get more than half
way there before dark yesterday. That old big boat was heavy and hard to
paddle. It just took more time than they thought is would. Don't worry about it they will be home soon.
Derwood was
right, as usual, and a few minutes later I saw Dad and Oliver coming across the
new ground from the river. I ran to meet them and asked Oliver how many they
caught. He said a whole bunch. I could see he had all he could carry in one
sack. I was hoping for a more exact number, but I could see I wasn't going to
get it, at least for then.
When we
arrived at the house Dad told Oliver and Derwood to get back to the river and
bring the other two sacks up the hill. Now all of this put me in a heck of a
bind. I wanted to run down to the boat landing to see what was in the other two
sacks. I also wanted to hear what Dad would tell Mother about the hunt. I
decided to stay and listen to what Dad said.
Dad told
Mother they made it to the Brick Mansion before it was dark enough to light the
carbide light. He said as soon as he lit up he started catching frogs. By the
time they reached Fool River they had almost filled one sack with frogs. They
decided to hunt up Fool River a short distance. By the time they hunted a mile
they had filled one sack and started on another. He decided to head for home.
He said it was a long twelve mile hunt back home and it got daylight about two
miles before they made it.
Derwood and
Oliver brought the other two sacks of frogs and laid them near the pump beside
the first sack. Dad told Mother to start breakfast and everyone else would
dress the frogs. Derwood brought two No. 3 wash tubs and put them near the
pump. We took turns pumping water. The moment I had been waiting for was fast
approaching. I couldn't wait to see my first bull frog. I had been wondering
what they might look like ever since Dad brought the frog grabs home. I had
decided they couldn't be as big as the huge toad I had a run in with a couple
of years ago, but the way everyone had been talking about their size, they
probably didn't like much. Dad untied one of the sacks and told me to hold the
sack closed. Then he showed me how to hold the sack open enough for him to get
his hand inside and get a frog, then tighten it back when he pulled the frog
out. I gripped the sack with both hands. When dad was ready I let a little slack
and he fished inside and pulled the frog out. I wasn't prepared for what I saw.
When Dad
pulled that monster out of the sack it scared me half to death. I don't know if
it was intentional or not, but he wiped the back of my hand and my arm clear to
my elbow with that monster's feet. I screamed to the top of my voice, turned
loose of the sack and ran like a streak. The sack turned over and about a half dozen frogs got loose. Dad grabbed the sack and
closed it. Everybody else was running after the frogs that got loose. It was a
total state of confusion. I was backed up against the wall scared half to
death. I just knew I was fixing to get a good whipping.
Soon
everything settled down. All of the frogs were back in the sack and we were
ready to get started again. Dad looked at me and in a strong voice said,
"Boy get over here and hold this sack, and I mean hold it this time. Well,
it was decision making time again. I had two choices. I could get over there
and handle those monster frogs with mouths big enough to swallow my whole hand,
or I could face Dad's razor strap. I chose the frogs.
When the
frogs were dressed we all went inside and ate breakfast. Mother and Derwood
carried the frogs to Hugo's Market. Dad and Oliver went to bed and the rest of
us did whatever we were supposed to do. When Dad woke up that evening I heard
Mother tell him there was over a hundred pounds of the frogs. Dad said,
"This frog hunting might be a way to make some good money. There are
plenty of them out there. It will be hard work, but it might be worth it".
For the next
few weeks Dad, Oliver and Derwood did nothing but frog hunt. Every hunt they
made they caught a hundred pounds or more. It seemed there was no end to how
many frogs there was out there. As for this bright eyed eight
year old, I could care less how many there was out there. As far as I
was concerned they could stay out there. I hated frogs.
By September
1935, Dad turned the frog hunting over to Derwood and Oliver. They had hunted
Tensas River from Alligator Bayou to the Newlight
Ferry several times. Every time they hunted they caught fewer frogs. It had
reached the point where they were catching fifty pounds or less each hunt. Dad
decided it was time to try something else.
We were all
gathered at the breakfast table one morning when Dad announced that he thought
we can make some money hunting alligators. He said Hugo would pay a dollar a
foot for all of the alligator hides we could get. Oliver, Derwood, John, and
the older kids seemed to get excited about the prospects of hunting alligators.
As for me, I wasn't too thrilled. I wanted to get involved with the monsters. I
had never seen an alligator but I had seen pictures of them and looked pretty
mean to me.
After
breakfast I followed Derwood outside and asked him if we were going to catch
those big alligators. He said, "We are not going to catch them with our
hands. We hunt them at night. We will shine their eyes with a headlight and
paddle on up to them and shoot them. Then we will roll them into the boat.
There will not be any danger as long as we do it right."
At dinner
time that same day Dad said we were going alligator hunting that night. He said
he needed a lot of help and that he, Oliver, Derwood, John A. and I would go.
We left the house around three o'clock and paddled the boat about two miles up
the Tensas River to what we called the Blue Line. Dad had rigged the boat with
a rope about ten feet long attached to the front and a short rope on each side.
He cut three short sticks and tied them to the front rope and the two side
ropes. Then he cut a longer stick and tied it to the long front rope about four
feet from the boat. When all this was done we pulled the boat up the river hill
and started the long two and one half miles to Lake Nick.
As I said
before, that old cypress boat was heavy. It proved to be almost too heavy to be
pulled that far, even with five of us pulling it. On the first pull we made it
about a quarter of a mile before we rested. After that we pulled it shorter and
shorter between rests. By the time we left the Blue Line we were pulling it a
hundred yards or so between rests. Some how Dad made
a wrong turn and we wound up in a palmetto thicket instead of open flat land
like we were supposed to be in. Dad had to backtrack to find out where we were.
This gave the rest of us some much needed rest. When Dad returned he said we
had to go to our right. We went to our right and to our surprise we were within
a hundred yards of where we were supposed to be. We followed the edge of the
flat land (which we called the Lake Nick roughs) a couple hundred yards and
found Lake Nick. It was a beautiful little woods lake about a half mile long.
It was lined with huge cypress trees on both sides much like the ones we saw on
Blue Line Break when we were hog hunting. There was a thick stand of button
willow bushes all around the lake with limbs extended into the water. It was a
beautiful place to see.
Duck hunters
from the Sharkey Club House had cleared a small camp ground and boat landing.
We put the boat in the lake then we all rested. When we had rested awhile Dad
said it was time to gather some wood for a fire. He said we needed enough to
keep a big fire all night. Derwood asked him why we needed a big fire all
night. He said there was two reasons for the fire. One
was to warm the alligators so we could skin them and another reason was to keep
the wolves back away from the alligator meat.
Now all of
this was beginning to get to be a little too much for me. This was only the
second time I had been in the big woods of the Tensas. The first time I had to
look out for big boar hogs that could cut your legs off. Now it was alligators
big enough swallow you whole. On top of that there was
wolves that could tear you to shreds. I knew there were wolves in the big
woods. I had heard them howl many times across the
river from home. I just had not associated them with alligator hunting.
Mother had
packed us a big lunch of venison and biscuits. We ate supper and built a big
fire. By then it was dark. Dad lit the headlight and he and Oliver got in the
boat and paddled up the lake. They hadn't gone far when we heard Dad shoot.
About ten minutes later he shot again. Then he shot a third time. Soon we saw
them coming back to the landing. When they landed the boat we went to see what
they had killed. When I saw what they had I was shocked. They had three huge
alligators that almost filled up that big old boat. Oliver and Derwood pulled
them up the bank and placed them near the fire. Dad explained that alligators
had to be skinned a certain way or the hides would be worthless. He showed us
exactly how to do it. When he was sure we knew how, he said, "Don't cut
the hide. Every nick you make in a hide will cost you a whole foot of hide. Be
careful not to cut any holes in it."
Derwood
straddled one of the gators and cut a deep gash along the rough hide on top of
his boat. When he did that the gator literally came unhitched. He swung his
tail from side to side with enough power to throw a man twenty feet. Derwood
rolled off the gator's back and kept rolling until he
was out of reach of the tail. He sprang to his feet warmed.
By the time
we skinned the three alligators. Dad and Oliver came with two more. We placed
them in the fire to warm. While we were waiting for them to warm we heard a
lone wolf howl far to the west toward Tensas River. When we were through
skinning the two alligators we heard the wolf howl again. This time he was more
than a quarter of a mile away. Dad and Oliver came in with three alligators. We
told them about the wolf and Dad said keep the fire
burning high and there will be no danger. About the time he was finished
skinning the last three alligators the wolf howled again. This time he was no
more than two hundred miles {yards?} away.
Another howled about a half mile to southwest toward Singer Shack. Another wolf
put in about a quarter mile to the Northwest toward Mound Bayou. Soon they
sounded like they were howling to each other. We could tell that each time they
howled they were closer to us. The fire was burned down and Derwood told me to
put some wood to it. The woodpile was about thirty feet from the fire. I was
about half way to it and found that I couldn't see it very well. I ran back to
the fire and told Derwood if he wanted more wood he would have to go with me to
get it. We all three went to the wood pile together. On the way back to the
fire I saw Derwood glance back a couple times just in case.
Dad and
Oliver had been up the lake a long time. We had not heard them shoot. We counted
the hides and found that we had twelve. We now had three packs of wolves
nearby. We could hear them growling and snarling at each other. The pack to the
west was less than a hundred yards away. The other two packs were closing in
from both sides. They had all quit howling and was just growling and snarling.
We could hear them walking in the leaves and rattling the palmetto. We added
more wood to the fire.
Finally we
saw Dad's light coming down the lake. When they were less than a hundred yards
from the landing Dad shot. We could hear them pull the alligator into the boat.
When they reached the landing we found they had killed a small five footer.
Oliver pulled it up the hill and placed it by the fire. Upon their arrival the
wolves backed off a bit but we could still hear them on three sides of us.
Oliver suggested we pull a couple of the big carcasses to the thickets and let
the wolves have them. Then maybe they would leave us alone. Dad
said, we cannot do that. As it is now the wolves have only smelled the
fresh meat. If they ever taste it they will try to take it all and we cannot
fight them off. Just keep the fire going and there
will be no danger."
Dad asked
how many hides we had. Derwood said we had thirteen. Dad said there was a huge
alligator that he had been trying to get a shot at all night but he wouldn't
let him get close enough. He said he wanted to make one more try before
daylight. He and Oliver went back up the lake and Derwood, John A. and I
skinned the small gator.
As soon as
Dad and Oliver left the three packs of wolves moved back in close. They started
snarling and growling and moving in even closer than before. Derwood cut three
green sticks we could use for clubs, just in case we had to have them. Before
long we heard Dad shoot, then a couple minutes later another shot. We wondered
if he had killed two more alligators. I really hoped he had not killed any
more. I was tired, hungry and scared half to death of those wolves. All I
wanted was to go home and get some food and rest. We saw Dad's light pulling
into the landing. About the time they landed the boat all hell broke loose. Two
of the big wolves started fighting. Soon they were joined by another and
another and another. It sounded like all three packs were engaged in a gang fight.
Some of them were screaming in pain, others were making ferocious noises that
sounded as if they were trying to kill the other. The fight went on and on. It
seemed it would never end.
Finally it
suddenly ended. When I say suddenly I mean instantly. One second there was this
vicious battle and the next second, total silence. It was almost unbelievable.
We all stood in total silence for a couple of minutes, then Dad said, that's
it, it's all over, we don't have to worry about wolves
anymore tonight." Dad had killed the big alligator he was looking for. It
was a huge monster. Dad said he was a big bull gator and guessed he was eight
feet long. It took Dad, Oliver and Derwood all three to pull it up to the fire.
Oliver asked Dad if they were going back hunting again. Dad said, when we skin
this big one we will have fourteen hides. That's enough. There is only three or
four left in the lake. We will leave them to raise another crop.
When they
finished skinning the big gator it was getting daylight. We rolled the hides
into tight rolls and put them in burlap sacks. Then we put them and everything
else in the big boat and headed for home. When we were leaving I took one more
look at all of those alligator carcasses. It looked like a slaughter house.
This ended my
second trip to the Big Woods of the Tensas. I am now older and more grown up
than before. In two weeks I would be nine years old.
Chapter 6
Alligator Gar
Another
creature that contributed to a great deal to our livelihood was the alligator
gar. Anyone who did not actually see these magnificent creatures back then can not possibly imagine their size and numbers.
We had been
living at Flower's Landing two or three years when Uncle Carl Willhite (Dad's brother) moved in about a half mile up the
Tensas river from our house. He had a small cypress
boat made of one-half inch lumber. He kept it treated with linseed oil and it
was very light. Two people could drag it anywhere they wanted to go. When we
wanted to hunt any of the woods lakes where we needed a boat he would loan it
to us. We often borrowed it to pull across the bends of Tensas River and then
hunt all the way around the bend to where we began.
Dad and
Oliver borrowed the boat one day to go frog hunting around McGill Bend. They
paddled up Tensas River to Stewart's Camp which was about a half mile down
river from Democrat Bayou. (Stewart's Camp was a small camp house that was used
by game wardens and timber wardens when they were working in that area). Then
they dragged the boat north across McGill Bend to Squirrel Tail Bayou, which is
a small bayou that drains into Tensas River from the Hunters Bend side, a
distance of about a mile and a quarter. From Squirrel Tail Bayou to Flowers
Landing is about twenty two miles if you follow the river all the way around
McGill Bend.
I will tell
the story as Dad told to the family the next day. Dad said, "When it got
dark we lit the carbide light and started catching frogs. About a half mile from where we started two large gar were feeding
on shad. They looked as if they each weighed a hundred pounds or more. There was a lot of shoals in the river and we saw huge gar on
almost every one of them. When we reached Parker Boy Bayou we heard a noise
that sounded like a drove of large animals splashing around in the water.
Parker Boy shoal is about two hundred yards down river from the mouth of Parker
Boy Bayou. As we approached the upper end of the shoal we started seeing
millions of shad feeding in the shallow water. The loud splashing was getting
more intense. Ahead of us we could see huge splashes of water being thrown ten
or fifteen feet into the air. When we were half way across the shoal we saw a
huge gar swimming up stream against the current. He
swam right past our boat not more than four feet away. Just as he passed the
back of our boat he rolled over and threw water high into the air. Dad shined
the light down river and could see the water was in constant turmoil for a
hundred yards. When we got near the confusion we started seeing the most and
largest bunch of gar I had ever seen. I didn't know what to do. We were in
Carl's little boat and I was afraid one of those huge
gar might attack it. If that happened we might not survive. We landed the boat
and stood on the bank awhile just looking at the huge creatures. There were
millions of shad and dozens of huge gar. Finally I told Oliver if we could make
it a hundred yards we would be off of the shoal and I thought we would be safe.
We got in the boat and slowly drifted off of the shoal. We saw several huge gar as we drifted down stream. When we reached deep water we
didn't see any more gar until we reached Fool River Shoal.
When we
reached the mouth of Fool River, which was half mile from the shoal, we could
still hear the loud splashing behind us. We saw several big gar
on the Fool River shoal and some of the other shoals on the way home but
nothing compared to what we saw on the Parker Boy shoal. Dad decided he could
build a strong gig with long beards and gig the big gar. He worked all day
building the gig. It had two prongs made of half inch steel rods about ten
inches long with one inch beards. It had a strong cypress handle about eight
feet long. The next day around noon, Dad, Oliver, Derwood, John A. and I left
home heading for Parker Boy shoal to gig gar. It is about thirteen miles from
Flowers Landing to Parker Boy Bayou. With all five of us paddling we made good
time. We arrived at the shoal before dark. We ate a small lunch Mother had
prepared. Then we sat on the river bank and waited until dark.
About sundown
the shads started moving into the shallow water. Forty or fifty Buffalo fish
also moved onto the shoal and started feeding in the shallow water, but no gar
could be seen. Dad lit the headlight and watched the river for the gar. The
shad kept getting thicker and thicker in the shallow water until it looked as
if there was one huge school that reached from bank to bank in the river. Soon
there was a loud splash in the water about twenty yards up river from our boat.
Then another huge splash near the middle of the river.
Dad said, "It sounds like they are moving in. Let's try them".
We got into
the boat and shoved it toward the middle of the river. The water was about
three feet deep and very clear. Dad saw a big gar in front of and off the right
of the boat. He motioned for us to turn the boat toward the gar. When he was
exactly where he wanted to be he raised the gig high and slammed it into the
side of the big gar with all of his strength. Both prongs of the gig hit the
gar about ten inches behind the gills. When the gig hit the big gar he rolled
over and reversed direction all in one movement. This created a huge boil and
splash and water was thrown high in the air wetting everyone in the boat. Like
a streak the big gar headed down stream rolling and splashing water as he went.
The big gig pole was popping like a kite tail. About forty yards down stream the huge creature made one last leap into the
air and the gig came out. One moment there was turmoil in the water, the next
moment there was total silence. We drifted down to the gig and Dad picked it up
and examined it. There was meat on both beards of the gig. We could not
understand how the gar could have possibly gotten off.
All of the
noise and turmoil created by the first gar caused most of the other gar to move
out of the shallow water. We shoved the boat back up stream to the upper end of
the shoal and did not see another gar. We turned around and started back across
the shoal. We were about half way back across the shallow water when we found a
big gar hiding beside a log. We moved the boat in close and Dad again threw the
gig into the big gar. Again the big gar rolled and boiled the water and headed
down stream. This time he went about twenty yards when the gig came out. Dad
said, "This is not going to work. We are going to have to find another way
to get these big gar." We headed home. On the way
home Dad gigged several more gar and every one of them got off the gig. When we
were about a half mile down stream from Republican
Bayou, Dad saw, what he said was the biggest gar he had ever seen. He threw the
gig at him but the water was deeper than he thought and the gig passed over the
top of him. From the boil he made in the water he had to be a mighty big gar.
Dad had
three buffalo gigs that were made by a man in West Monroe, Louisiana. The two
prongs were about seven inches long and was made of
quarter inch spring steel. It had hinged beards which were about one inch long.
The points were tapered from the inside of the gig. When the gig hit a fish the
beards folded up against the prongs. When the fish pulled on the gig the beards
opened up and there was no way the fish could get off. To get the gig out of
the fish you had to push the prongs all the way through the fish and wrap the
beards with a soft strip of cloth to keep them from opening up. Then the prongs
could be pulled out of the fish.
Dad placed
one of the buffalo gigs beside the big gig he had made. He examined them very
closely. He turned one of them over, then the other. When he had examined them
a long time he said, "I now know why the big gig would not stay in the big
gar. There are several reasons. First, the prongs are too big, and secondly
they were not tapered from he
inside. A cut beard gig must have prongs limber enough to spring open slightly
when it strikes a fish then spring back together when it is in the fish. To
make them spring open the prongs must be tapered from the inside. If we gig the
big gar we will have to have a better gig.
The
strongest of the three buffalo gigs was one we called Carl's gig. Actually it
belonged to Uncle Jack (another one of Dad's brothers). It was slightly bigger
than the other two and stronger built. Dad decided if he made a stronger handle
and used stronger leather straps to fasten the gig to the handle it would be
strong enough to gig the big gar. He did this and he and Oliver went up the
river to try it out. They found big gar on the Mill Bayou shoal. Dad threw the
gig into the gar and it glanced off. Dad retrieved it and examined it very carefully.
Then he said, "I know what is wrong". He explained, "A buffalo
gig has prongs that are blunt ended. This is to prevent the points from
penetrating the scales and preventing the gig from going through the fish. This
is not true with a gar gig. When gigging gar you must have a gig that has sharp
points which will tear between the hard scales and break through the tough
hide.
The next day
Dad sharpened the points on the gig. That night he and Oliver went up the
Tensas River to try it again. They returned around midnight with
three huge gar. Dad said, "This gig is exactly what we need to get
the big gar. We will make a lot of money with it."
All the rest
of that summer and for several summers to come we hunted the big gar in the
Tensas River. Dad was right. We made a lot of money. Hugo paid us six cents per
pound for all the gar we could get. Almost any time we hunted all night we
would kill a boat load, which was three to four hundred pounds.
For the next
two years, almost every time any of us passed through the Brick Mansion Hole,
we saw the huge gar Dad saw the night we went to Parker Boy Shoal. If it was
day time we would see him come up and roll. If it was at night we would hear
him roll or sometimes we would see him in the deep water around a tree top. If
we had a gig when we saw him he would always move into deep water before we
could get a shot at him. Every time Oliver saw the huge creature he would vow
that someday he would get him. All of us secretly hoped we would be the one who
finally threw the gig that killed him.
What we
called the Brick Mansion Hole was a wide place in Tensas River that extended
from the mouth of Republican Bayou to the Brick Mansion, a distance of a little
over a mile. It was about three times as wide as other parts of the river in
that area and the water was ten to sixteen feet deep. A lot of big fish lived
in this deep hole during the summer months including the monster gar.
The largest
school of buffalo fish I have ever seen was feeding on a shoal just above the mouth
of Republican Bayou. Derwood and I had been frog hunting in Parks Break and was headed home just after daylight. When we approached the
shoal from the up stream side we could hardly believe
what we saw. There were literally thousands of big buffalo on the shoal. The
water was about three feet deep and very clear. We could easily see the fish.
It was a scene I will never forget.
We were
eating dinner one day about the middle of June when Dad said he thought the
water was right to gig gar. The river had been down to low water a couple of
weeks and was clearing up. He told Oliver, John A. and I to borrow Carl's boat
and make the trip around McGill bend. He said he thought we could kill enough
gar to justify the trip.
When we
arrived at Squirrel Tail Bayou it was beginning to get dark. We slid the boat
into the water and waited until good dark. Oliver lit the head light and we set
off toward home. The first three miles we saw nothing but small twenty or
thirty pound gar. We finally killed a sixty pound one on the Camp Ground Shoal.
The next big gar we killed was on the Parker Boy Shoal and it only weighed
about seventy pounds. We didn't see another gar big enough to kill until we
reached Snake Bayou where he killed a small fifty pound one. We were using up a
lot of river and not getting many gar. When we passed
the mouth of Republican Bayou Oliver said we were a third of the way home and
had only three small gar. Then he said, "Maybe we
will get the big monster gar tonight." By then we were moving into the Brick
Mansion Hole. Oliver said he wanted to hunt the left side of the river. He
brightened the carbide head light as bright as it would get and stood in the
front of the boat where he could see straight down into the water. We were
about a half mile down the side of the hole when we came upon a large overcup acorn tree that had fallen into the river. We moved
the boat slowly around the side of the tree top. We were near the end of the
tree when Oliver whispered, "Stop." He raised the gig high over his
head and held it. Then he lowered it. He raised it again and then lowered it
again. Then he said, "It's a log." We started moving the boat forward
and Oliver looked across the river then looked back. When he did he said,
"Stop, Stop." Then he said, "The huge monster is in that tree
top but I cannot hit him from here. We will have to circle around and come back
to where I can get him." We turned the boat around and came back to where
he had seen the huge gar. This time he raised the gig high and brought it down
with all of his strength.
When the gig
hit the big gar the whole side of the tree top seemed to explode. Mud and water
boiled up from the bottom of the river and the huge gar tore out of the tree
top and headed for deep water. Oliver said, "That is the monster gar we
have been trying to kill for years. Both prongs of the gig are in him right
behind the head. We have him now." Well, not quite. It was true the gig
was in him in the right place but it as it turned out we were a long way from
having him. When the big gar left the tree top he headed down stream. When he
reached deep water the gig pole disappeared and that was the last we saw of him
for over half an hour.
As we
paddled down stream looking for the big gar Oliver
explained, "When I first saw the big devil I knew it looked like a gar but
it was too big. I could not see his eye so I thought it must be a log. When I
looked off then back to the tree top I saw his eye. When we circled back I
could see both his eye and his body. He still looked like a big log but I knew
it was a huge gar. That is when I gigged him.
Finally,
after going down stream about a quarter mile we saw the end of the gig pole
sticking out of the water about six inches. We quietly paddled to it and Oliver
caught hold of it and tried to pull it up. When he pulled on the pole the big
gar took off down river again. The next time we saw the pole sticking up we
were two hundred yards further down. We repeated this over and over again. We
would find the pole, pull on it and the gar would snatch it away from us and go
another two hundred yards. We went from one end of the deep hole to the other
several times. Finally after about two hours of chasing the big gar up and down
the river, he started showing signs of weakening. We could lift him high enough
to see him but not high enough to hit him with the ax. Oliver would catch hold
of the gig pole and shake it and the gar would lunge forward but he wouldn't go
but a few yards and then stop, but we still couldn't get his head high enough
to hit with the ax. We had to find another way to land him. We decided that I
would go on the bank with the ax. John A. would paddle the boat and Oliver
would guide the gar into the shallow water and I would hit him with the ax.
After trying this three times they finally guided the monster into shallow
enough water that I could hit him. I raised the ax high and brought it down
hard just behind the head. The battle was over. The monster gar was dead.
Oliver leaned backward and let out a loud scream that sounded something like a
rebel yell and said "I promised I would some day
kill the big monster gar. Now I have kept my promise."
It took all
three of us quite a long time to get the huge gar into the boat. When we finally
did the boat was loaded. There was not more than an inch of the boat above the
water on either side. We had to be very careful not to tip it.
When we
arrived home it was starting to get daylight. We left the gar in the boat and
went to the house to tell everyone what we had. Dad, Mother and most of the
kids went to the landing to see the huge gar. Dad stood and looked at the big
gar a long time. Then he said, "All of you kids take a good look at the
huge gar. You will never again see another one this big." He was right.
This all happened over sixty years ago and I have never seen a gar much more
than half this size since that day.
Chapter 7
Depression Years
When we are
growing up during the depression everyone who was old enough worked. When I was
eight years old, I was expected to be out there working along
side my older brothers. I may not get as much done as they did but I
work just as hard.
While some
of us were working with the crops, clearing land and or doing anything else
that needed doing, Dad and two or three of the older boys were always fishing,
trapping, frog hunting, alligator hunting, or doing anything they could to keep
some money coming in.
When I was
ten years old, John A. was twelve and Oliver was sixteen, Dad sent us on a
seven night frog hunt. We hunted Tensas River from Flowers Landing to Rafkin (Rathman) Mound and back
to Tendal. We caught a lot of frogs and the next year
he sent us back to do it again. This time he sent only John A. and I.
I can tell
you now, there was a lot of difference in John A. and I making this trip than
it was when Oliver was with us. Without that third paddle we couldn't make
nearly as good time. Besides that, Oliver was a grown man. He knew how to cook,
lay out bedrolls, and put up mosquito nets for the best protection, and a
hundred other things the John A. and I had never thought about. It is true, we
had made the trip the year before and thought we knew exactly how to do it.
(Remember I said "THOUGHT").
The day we
were to start the trip Dad set John A. and I down and explained what we were to
do. We would hunt to the upper end of Fool River the first night and make camp
at the mouth of Roaring Bayou. The next night we would hunt to the Hunters Bend
crossing. This crossing was near where the bridge is now. Dad would meet us
there and pick up what frogs we had. We would plan the rest of the trip at that
time.
Mother made
a bed roll which consisted of two quilts, one sheet and a mosquito net. Mother
also boxed up some dishes. We had a frying pan, two tin cups, two tin plates,
two forks, a tablespoon and what we called a flapjack flipper. Actually it was
an egg turner. We also had a one gallon syrup bucket for making coffee. For
groceries we had a gallon syrup bucket of hog lard, a half gallon syrup bucket
of ribbon cane syrup, a ten pound sack of flour, a two pound sack of coffee, a
quart jar of sugar, a pint jar of salt and about two pounds of dry salt meat.
Mother made a small lunch of some biscuits and a few slices of salt meat. She
said we could have this for breakfast the first morning.
We loaded
all of this into the boat and by the time we got under way it was dark enough
to light the carbide light. We started catching frogs as soon as we got
started. We traveled at a strong steady pace. We knew not to rush it or we
would give out before daylight. We made better time on the shoals where we
could push along on the bottom. In deep water it was much harder and slower.
When we
reached the upper end of Fool River we landed the boat at the mouth of Roaring
Bayou. We looked around for a place to make camp but didn't find a good place.
It was not quite daylight. The morning star was just above the treetops but the
red birds had not started calling. We decided we had time enough to hunt back
down the other side of Fool River to Leading Bayou, which was about a mile.
Leading
Bayou drains into Fool River on the north side of the basin. The Fool River
Basin is a large, almost round lake like area that is very deep and is about a
quarter of a mile wide. There was a nice camp ground at the mouth of Leading
Bayou. When we reached the camp ground we spread our bed roll, put up the
mosquito net, ate the small lunch Mother made for us and turned in for some
much needed rest.
When
I woke up that evening John A. was no where to be
found. I looked
around the camp ground but he was not there. I walked down to the river and
found him getting water from a small spring. He said he thought it would be
nice to have some cool water, I agreed. I was not only thirsty, I was starving.
We decided it was late enough to cook supper. We build a big fire and put the
frying pan on to heat. John A. sliced some dry salt meat and I stirred up some
batter for some flap jacks. The frying pan was good and hot and I decided it
was time to pour the batter in it. I poured in about a half cup of batter and
the smoke boiled. I tried to turn the flap jack over with the flipper. Not only
was the batter stuck, it was welded to the frying pan. I raked and scraped and
stirred as fast as I could and soon I had the prettiest pan of scrambled flap
jacks I had ever seen. Some of it was burned, some was raw. I raked it into a
tin plate and looked at it. I tried to get John A. to taste it. He refused. I
tried it and it tasted like burned rubber. I dumped it out and started over.
We knew we
had to learn how to make flap jacks or we were going to get awfully hungry.
Flap Jacks and ribbon cane syrup was going to be our staple food for the next
six days. We decided the frying pan was too hot and that was what was causing
the batter to stick so hard. Then I remembered that last year Oliver had put a
small amount of lard in the frying pan before he put the batter in. We decided
to try one. To our surprise it worked. By putting lard in the frying pan and
cooking it slow we made a perfect flap jack, with a couple exceptions. First,
the flour we had was not self rising and there was no salt in it. We had no
baking powder to add to it but we did have salt. We made two large stacks of
flap jacks, fried some dry salt meat and sat down to a meal,
that to us, was fit for a king.
The second
night was uneventful. We had a lot of deep water that slowed us down quite a
lot. We saw a lot of wildlife and fish. We traveled at a steady pace. We took
notice of the land marks and knew about where we were and how far we had to go
at all times. When it got daylight we were at the military road at the mouth of
Mack Bayou. We knew we were about one mile from where we were to meet Dad.
When we
arrived at the Hunters Bend crossing Dad was not there. We cooked some more
flap jacks and fried the last of our dry salt meat. We were finishing our
breakfast when Dad arrived. We had expected him to bring some more groceries
but he didn't. We told him about our flour being plain instead of self rising.
He said he couldn't see where that would make too much difference.
Dad said he
had planned the rest of our trip. He said we were to hunt all the way around Dishrume Bend the next night and he would meet us where the
Sharkey Road hit the Tensas River and pick up the frogs. Then we would hunt to
Dunlap the next night and Tendal the next night. We
said he would pick up the frogs at Tendal. The next
night we would hunt to Rafkin Mound then return to Tendal the seventh night.
We had about
a hundred pounds of frogs. We loaded them on the truck and Dad left. After Dad
left we loaded coffee and the only reason we even made any was that grown folks
was supposed to drink coffee.
We had
caught about seventy pounds of frogs hunting around Dishrume
Bend. We loaded them on the truck and Dad left. We went back to the boat and
started looking for a place to camp. We found a good place a couple hundred
yards below the mouth of Alligator Bayou. We made some more flap jacks and
poured syrup over them and ate breakfast. That evening we ate more flap jacks
and syrup for supper.
The trip
from Alligator Bayou to Dunlap was very tiresome. We had shallow water most of
the way. A lot of the river was grown completely over with deer grass and it
was hard pushing the heavy boat through. When we arrived at Dunlap we made camp
in sight of the Dunlap field. Again we had flapjacks and syrup for breakfast.
We made our bed rolls and went to bed. About eleven o'clock I woke up and found
that our bed was in the hot boiling sun. I woke John A. up and we moved it to
some shade. We tried to get some more sleep but the hundred degree weather
along with the ticks and sand flies made it impossible to do so. We lay in bed
and rested until about one o'clock. When we got up we were literally starving
to death. As hungry as I was I couldn't stand the thought of eating any more
flap jacks and syrup. We built a fire and made a bucket of coffee. Neither of
us could drink much of it.
John A. said
he had packed some small fish hooks and some fishing line. Maybe we could find
some mussels for bait and catch some fish for supper. We cut some switch cane
poles and rigged up two fishing rigs. A huge cutover tree had fallen into the
river nearby. When we climbed out on the tree top we could see the fish in the
clear water. All we had to do was find the fish we wanted to catch, dangle the
bait in front of him and he would grab it. It was lot of fun. We soon had more
fish than we could eat.
When we were
about ready to start cleaning the fish we heard some one
coming down the river bank whistling as loud as I have ever heard anyone
whistle in my life. The man came straight into our camp and introduced himself.
He said his
name was Ely Thornhill. He said he lived a short
distance up the river. He said he saw the smoke from our fire and come to
investigate. He asked us a lot of questions. The first thing he wanted to know
was how old we were. John A. told him he was thirteen and I was eleven. He told
him that we lived at Flowers Landing and was on a seven night frog hunt. That
last night was our fourth night. He asked us how much food we had and John A.
told him we had some plain flour and some ribbon cane syrup, that we had eaten
nothing but flap jacks and syrup for two days. The man sat around and talked
about thirty minutes and then went back up the river whistling.
Before we
started dressing our fish we heard the man coming back down the river, still
whistling. When he came into our camp that time he had a whole side of ribs
from a good sized yearling deer with the loin still on it. He also had a gallon
jug half full of plum jelly. He laid the food on our bed roll and said he
thought we might like a change of diet. He left without any further comment.
When he was a short distance away he looked back and said that Mr. Jefferson
asked him to tell us that he would like for us to stop by his house on our way
up the river. He said we would see his house about a mile further up. When Mr.
Ely left we lit in on that side of ribs like of
couple of starved dogs. This was the first decent food we had in four days. In
a short time we ate nearly all of the meat and half of the jelly.
With our
bellies full we didn't need the fish we had caught so we threw them back into
the river. We decided to pack up and go on up to Mr. Jefferson's before dark.
We had never met Mr. Jefferson. We had heard of him a lot. He was timber warden
for the Singer Land and Timber Co. Some people said he was also a game warden.
In 1925 he arrested Dad for trapping on the refuge. We didn't know what to
expect. We couldn't understand what he could possibly want with a couple of
kids like us.
When we
arrived at Mr. Jefferson's house he invited us in. Mrs. Jefferson served us
muffins and milk. Even though we were as full as ticks we were grateful for the
food. Mr. Jefferson asked us a lot of questions, mostly about where we lived,
how long we had been on the trip and how much further we intended to go. When
he was convinced we were only frog hunting he was satisfied. It was getting dark
and we needed to get on our way. Mr. Jefferson asked us not to catch any frogs
for the first mile or two in case he wanted some to eat. We said we wouldn't
and we didn't, for about three hundred yards.
The trip
from Dunlap to Tendal was the shortest hunt we had on
the whole trip. When we left the mouth of Judd Bayou we had several miles of wide river and deep water. We could not push on the bottom
anywhere. By midnight it was beginning to take it's toll on both of us. When we finally reached
shallow water we were way behind our schedule. When we reached Tendal it was daylight. Dad was not there. We landed the
boat under the Highway 80 bridge and waited, and
waited, and waited. Finally he showed up about 10 A.M. He was in a hurry to get
the frogs and go. We loaded the frogs and he started to leave. I asked him if
he brought some food. He said he did not. I told him we had not had anything to
eat but flap jacks and syrup for three days. Si Wixon's
store was about a hundred yards down Highway 80 from the bridge. Dad went down
there and bought four dime cans of Pet milk and four Dixie Stage Planks. He
handed them to me and said, "That should hold you couple of days.” When
Dad left we went back down river a couple hundred yards and made camp. We each
ate a Dixie Stage Plank and drank a can of Pet milk. Then we bedded down for
the day. When we woke up it was almost dark. We loaded our gear into the boat,
ate the remaining milk and Stage Plank and headed out for another night. We
decided we needed to catch some small frogs to eat the next day or it would be
back to flap jacks and cane syrup. Neither of us wanted to even think about
that.
When we left
Tendal that night we had about six miles of deep
water ahead of us. The river was too wide to hunt both sides at once. We
decided to hunt the west side on the way up and the east side coming back down
the next night. The water was too deep to push on the bottom and it was a hard
grueling task to move the boat with the paddles. When we reached Roundaway Bayou, and shallow water, we were exhausted. It
was well past midnight and we were a long way from Rafkin
Mound. We decided to stop and make coffee. It was not that we wanted coffee, we
just needed some rest. We rested a short time, then we
moved on. We did not know just exactly where Rafkin
Mound was. We had been there only once and that was a year ago when Oliver was
with us. We were catching more frogs than we had on the whole trip. We decided
to hunt until daylight then make camp whether we found the Mound or not. When
it got daylight we found a camp site and bedded down without eating breakfast.
We were more tired than we were hungry.
I woke up
around noon and could not go back to sleep. I made a bucket of coffee. By then
John A. was awake also. We were both starving. We had caught about fifteen
small frogs to eat. We dressed them and cooked them all. I even made a few flap
jacks to go with the frogs. When we finished cooking we had enough food to feed
a half dozen people. By the time we got through eating there was nothing left.
We were both
excited. This would be our last night of the hunt. All evening we sat around
the camp and talked about the trip. It had been a hard grueling trip but a very
exciting one. There was hardly a time when we were not seeing some kind of game.
There were deer after deer feeding on the grass in the river. There were coons,
opossums, skunks, rabbits, alligators, wild hogs and all kinds of wild game.
There was also huge gar, buffalo, catfish and other fish in the clear water.
When we were traveling on the river there was never a dull moment.
Late that evening we went for a walk in
the beautiful woods. We had gone only a short distance when we came upon Rafkin Mound. Without knowing it we had reached the
destination we had planned for six days before.
The trip
back to Tendal was uneventful. We caught well over a
hundred pounds of frogs in the two nights north of Highway 80. When we arrived
at Tendal Dad was not there. We dragged the boat up
the river hill and waited. About 8 A. M. Dad showed up. We loaded the boat onto
the truck and headed home.
This
all happened almost sixty years ago. I will never forget when this eleven year old boy and
his thirteen year old brother spent seven nights and paddled a heavy cypress
boat over seventy five miles up Tensas River hunting frogs.
Chapter 8
The Turkey Hunt
In the
1930's there was an abundance of squirrels in the big woods of the Tensas. It
was not unusual to find a dozen squirrels feeding in one oak or pecan tree at
once. It was always interesting to me that the squirrels were selective about
which tree they wanted to feed in. There might be twenty five pecan or oak
trees, all loaded with nuts, in a small area but the squirrels would only be
feeding in one of two of them. When they finished eating all the nuts on these
trees they would move to another tree or two and feed on them. They would
continue to do this until early winter when all of the mash started falling to
the ground. Then they would feed mostly on nuts that were on the ground.
Squirrels
will eat almost anything. One of their favorite foods is water elm nuts. Water
Elm can be found almost everywhere along the banks of the Tensas River and the
bayous and streams that empty into it. The water elms bloom in April or May and
form small seed. Squirrels flock to these areas in unbelievable numbers.
One Saturday
evening I went Squirrel hunting at the mouth of Simpson Bayou which was about a
mile and a half from home. There was a lot of water elm trees there and plenty
of squirrels. It didn't take long to kill all of the squirrels I needed. I
decided that on the way home I would go a few hundred yards north to open woods
and then cut straight east back to the house. In doing this I had to cross the
end of a wide high ridge we called the pecan ridge. There were hundreds of huge
pecan trees on this ridge. Some of them were over four feet in diameter and a
hundred feet tall. There were a few scattering oak trees on the ridge that were
even bigger than the pecan trees.
When I was
about half way cross the ridge I heard a wild turkey gobble. It sounded like he
was about two hundred yards north of me. I could hardly believe what I heard. I
knew there were wild turkeys in the big woods but I had never seen or heard one
before. I squatted down beside a huge sweet gum tree and listened. In a couple
minutes he gobbled again. This time it sounded like he was closer. I sat down
flat on the ground and propped my gun on my knees and waited. If he was coming
toward me I might get a shot at him. The sun was down and it was beginning to
get dark. The big gobbler flew up and lit in a huge, brushy topped oak tree not
more that a hundred and fifty yards away. I thought
about slipping up close to the tree and try to shoot him off the roost. I had
always been told you could not slip up on a wild turkey. You always had to let
him come to you. I quietly slipped away from the big tree and ran almost all
the way home.
When I
reached home I was so excited I could hardly talk. I was trying to tell
everyone about the turkey but I was mostly just jabbering. Derwood stopped me
and said, "Slow down, quit jabbering, and tell us what happened.” This
slowed me down a bit and I told them what happened. I told Dad that I knew
exactly what tree the turkey was in and if he would go with me I would show him
and he could call him up and kill him. Dad said, "If you want the turkey
killed you kill him. I don't care about killing a turkey”. This almost {missing words} put the box away where the kids
would not find it and play with it. He got it out and started showing me how to
use it. It would hardly make a sound. He said he needed some chalk. Mother
found a short piece of chalk some of the kids had brought from school. Dad
rubbed the chalk on the lid of the box and tried it. I made plenty of noise,
but it didn't sound like a turkey. Dad said, "That will call a turkey”. I
didn't think so but I was willing to try.
Before I
went to bed I put my hunting coat, boots, a twenty-two rifle, and a box of
shells by the door so I could slip out of the house without disturbing
everyone. Dad saw the twenty-two rifle and said I needed to take a shotgun. He
said I should take his L C Smith twelve gauge and some no. Six shot and that
was what I did.
When I
finally went to bed I was so excited I could hardly sleep. When I thought it
was time to go I got up and slipped out of the house. The morning star was well
above the trees and I knew I was too early. I crossed the river in a boat
instead of using the bridge. There was a soft moonlight but it was still dark in
the Big Woods. I had about a mile to go back to where the big turkey was. It
was slow traveling in the dark.
When
I reached the big gum tree where I had sat the evening before it was still
dark. I sat down
and placed the shotgun on one side of me and the turkey call on the other. Then
I waited, and waited and waited. Finally I heard a red bird call. I knew the
light would soon come.
When it
started getting daylight three deer passed within fifty yards of me. They never
knew I was there. By the time the deer were out of sight a drove of about ten
wild hogs came up behind me. I know they didn't see me but they must have
smelled me. They took off running and snorting and blowing. I just knew my
turkey hunt was over. When all of the noise quieted down it was broad open
daylight. I had not heard a peep from the turkey. A few minutes later the
turkey gobbled. I picked up the turkey box and made a light call. It sounded
horrible. The turkey gobbled again. Soon I heard him cluck. Then he clucked
again. I made another soft call. The turkey gobbled again and flew down. Then I
heard him coming through the woods clucking. He was coming straight to me. When
he was about seventy five yards from me I saw him. He was walking fast with his
head high. When he was about forty yards from me he went behind a tree. I knew
he was still coming toward me but I could not see him. I had the shot gun
braced over my knees. When he was about twelve yards away he stepped out from
behind the tree and stopped dead still. I drew a fine bead on his head and
squeezed the trigger. When I did this all hell broke loose. The recoil from the
gun slammed me back against the tree and knocked the breath out of me. The shot
gun fell to the ground and I couldn't find it. The turkey was flouncing and flopping
and jumping six feet high. I ran to the turkey with the intention of catching
him with my hands if he started to run away. He was flipping and flouncing so
hard I was afraid to get close to him. I ran back to the tree and got the gun
and reloaded it. By the time I got back to the turkey he had quieted down. I
picked him up and headed home. I was a proud little twelve year old turkey
hunter.
Chapter 9
We Become Experts
Beginning January
1935 and ending about 1945 the Willhite family made
most of their living hunting, fishing, trapping, alligator hunting, gigging the
big gar and frog hunting. In doing so we traveled up and down the Tensas River
almost daily, or nightly, depending on what we were hunting or fishing for and
how we were intending to catch or kill what we were after we traveled at least
part of the way there and back by boat. We became so familiar with the river we
could paddle a boat from Flowers Landing to Fool River and back without hitting
a single snag or log with the boat even on the darkest of nights and without a
light.
One example
of how good we were at not making noise happened one night when we were cut off
from home by a couple of game wardens. Derwood, John A. and I had been to the
Brick House fire hunting deer and were on our way home. When we were about
three hundred yards down stream from Stewart's Camp
we found a big doe. John A. and I eased the boat up close to the deer and
Derwood shot and killed it. We field dressed the deer, put the light out,
loaded the deer into the boat and started down stream
toward home. We went only a few hundred yards when we saw a bright flash light
on the right side of the river. It came down the bank near the water and went out.
We knew the light was at the end of the big log at Luke's Ditch.
In order to
appreciate the jam we were in one would have to know the circumstances. At the
mouth of Luke's Ditch was a big log that reached almost all the way across the
river. The river was completely cut off except for a narrow stream that gushed
around the west end of the log. There was a steep bluff about eight feet high
at the end of the log. There was barely enough room at the end of the log for a
boat to squeeze through. Approaching the log from the direction we were
traveling was two snags that were barely far enough apart for a boat to squeeze
between them.
If you tried
to go on either side of them the boat would drag the bottom and make a lot of
noise. If you made it between the two snags the swift current would try to take
over and slam the boat against the bank. If you were strong enough and skilled
enough to get the boat around the end of the log without making any noise you
were still not out of the woods. Just past the end of the big log was a group
of snags that were almost impossible to get the boat through without scrubbing
against them. To get through these quietly you had to make to hard left, go
twenty feet and make a hard right.
It was
decision making time. We were trapped. There were two game wardens on the bank
ahead of us and we had to pass within twelve feet of them if we were to get by.
Derwood asked John A. if he thought he could hold the back end of the boat off
of the bank when we went around the end of the log. He said he didn't know but
he would surely try. Then Derwood said, "It's
pitch dark. I can hardly see my hand before me. If we try we might just make
it, if we don't try we are caught anyway.” We moved the boat slowly down close
to the big log. We squeezed it between the two snags and didn’t touch them.
We moved the
boat into the swift water at the end of the log. The current swept it around
the end of the log so fast it seemed there was no way to control it. From the
front of the boat Derwood shoved hard to the left and again to the left then
back to the right. As we passed the end of the log someone took a drag off of a
cigarette not more than ten feet from us. Fifty yards down river we were in
deeper water. We stopped the boat and looked back. One person was smoking a
cigarette. They were mumbling to each other. We eased the boat downstream and
headed for home. A half mile downstream we had a good laugh. Derwood said,
"If you are good enough at what you do and you have the guts to try, you
can do almost anything." It was an exciting experience.
There were
many exciting experiences back then. One that stands out most vividly in my
mind concerns a huge alligator. Derwood, John A. and I went frog hunting around
McGill Bend. We borrowed Uncle Carl's small cypress boat. We paddled to
Stewart's Camp (about four miles) then pulled the boat across the bend to
Squirrel Tail Bayou. When it got dark we lit the carbide light and headed down
river.
About three
miles down river from Squirrel Tail Bayou there is a
place we called the Camp Ground Hole. It is a place where the river is deeper
and wider than most other places. At the lower end of this hole was a peninsula
that extended out into the river about fifty feet. There was a strip of water
between the peninsula and the bank that was about a foot deep, twenty feet long
and twenty five feet wide. We called this the Camp Ground Island. When we were
passing the end of this peninsula Derwood saw a big frog in the shallow water
behind the peninsula. He also saw a big alligator about twenty feet past the
frog. We had already turned the boat into the shallow water when John A. and I
saw the big alligator.
We instantly
jammed our paddles on the bottom and stopped the boat. Derwood asked,
"What is wrong. Don't you see that big frog?" John A. said, "We
see the frog alright. We also see that big gator.”
Derwood
said, "That alligator is not going to bother us. We will ease in there and
catch the frog then quietly back out without disturbing him. He is probably
asleep and we will not even wake him up." John A. said, "I know he is
not asleep. I can see both eyes and they are wide open.” Derwood was getting a
little irritated by then. He said, "Come on now,
shove the boat on in there so I can catch the frog. That gator is not going to
bother us.”
We moved the
boat forward so Derwood could catch the frog. Everything went well until the
frog grabs snapped on the frog. Derwood hit the frog hard to knock the air out
of him. When he did this the frog let out a loud croak. Then all heck broke loose. The big alligator left out of the shallow
water like a bullet, headed for deep water.
The problem
with that was we were between him and the deep water. The water where we were
was about a foot deep and the alligator was well over a foot thick. The boat
was exactly sideways to him. The big gator got his head under the boat and
lifted it clear out of the water. John A. and I dropped our paddles and grabbed
hold of the boat seat and held on. Derwood had been standing up and when the
gator hit the boat he tried to sit down and almost fell out of the boat.
The big
gator carried the boat, with us in it, about ten yards before the water got
deep enough for him to go under it. When he finally got loose from the boat he
took off down the river making waves as big as a motor boat.
We were so
stunned by what had happened no one said a word for a few moments. Finally John
A. said, "I told {missing words}
{missing words}
Squirrel Tail Bayou. We planned to hunt to the upper end of Fool River the
first night then on to Squirrel Tail Bayou the next. When we reached Squirrel
Tail we would pull the boat across the bend to Steward's Camp then paddle the
four miles home. It would be a hard trip.
The first
night went well. We caught a lot of frogs and saw a lot of wild game. On a
shoal just below the mouth of the Mile Ditch we saw about a dozen deer grazing
on deer grass in the river. That was the most deer I had ever seen in one
bunch. From the time we left home, all the way to the upper end of Fool River,
there was hardly a time when we were not seeing some kind of game or fish. At
the mouth of Snake Bayou we saw about ten wild hogs rooting along the edge of
the river. On the upper end of the Fool River Shoal we saw the biggest flat
head catfish I had ever seen.
When we
reached the upper end of Fool River we cooked breakfast and tried to get some
sleep. The sand flies were so bad it was impossible to go to sleep. Finally
about ten o'clock the sand flies let up some and we got a few hours rest. It
was a most miserable day.
A couple
hours before dark we decided to cook supper and get on our way. We dressed some
small frogs we caught the night before and cooked them and some flap jacks. By
the time we finished supper and loaded everything in the boat it was nearly
sundown. We knew we had a hard night ahead of us and decided to make a couple
miles before dark. When it got dark Derwood lit the carbide light and we
started catching frogs. When we reached the mouth of Fool River and started up
Tensas we already had about fifty pounds of frogs. When we reached the
Campground Hole we remembered the run in we had had with the big alligator the
year before.
About two
hundred yards from the lower end of the hole Derwood
looked back and said, "There is a big alligator behind us.” We turned the
boat sideways so we could all see and sure enough there was a huge alligator
about twenty yards behind us. When we stopped he stopped. When we moved on he
followed. This continued until we reached the upper end of the hole, then the
alligator disappeared.
Before we
reached Squirrel Tail Bayou I got so sleepy I just could not keep my eyes open.
I would go to sleep and John A. would shake me and wake me up. I would paddle a
few strokes then go right back to sleet. Finally John A. got tired of fooling
with me. He shaped his hand like a big claw and grabbed me by the cheek of my
butt, squeezed hard and yelled. "Alligator!”. I
screamed and threw my paddle about twenty feet and fell out of the boat. The
water was about shirt pocket deep and very cold. Derwood hollered, "You
better get back in this boat, here he comes!” I grabbed the side of the boat
and with one leap I was back in it as fast as I fell out of it. I thought they
would never quit laughing at me. Needless to say, I didn't get sleepy anymore
that night.
After that
night and for the next twenty five years almost every time I or other members
of my family paddled a boat through the Camp Ground Hole at night the big alligator
was still there. He always followed the boat all the way to the end of the
hole, always twenty yards behind.
As late as
1995 I was told that the biggest alligator in north Louisiana lives in the Camp
Ground Hole. I don't think he lives in the Camp Ground Hole. I believe he lives
in Hogskin Break (which is about three hundred yards
from Tensas River south of the Camp Ground Hole.) I think he only goes to
Tensas River to feed and then returns to his den in Hogskin
Break.
It has been
sixty years since the big alligator carried us for a most unwelcome ride. If it
is possible for an alligator to live that long there is a good chance that the
one reported to me in 1995 is the same one we saw all those years ago.
Chapter 10
One cannot
become involved in a discussion concerning the history of the Tensas River
Basin without eventually getting around to the subject of Norman Frisby and Orlando Flowers. When people get together and
discuss the two men their conversation always centers around
Frisby, and Flowers is mentioned only as "The
man who killed Frisby”.
What I am
going to write in this article is not something I read in a book or newspaper.
It is information given my family and myself by an old black man named Mose Martin. I do not claim that everything he said is true
nor do I vouch for its validity. All I can say is that my family and I believed
every word of it to be true.
In order to
appreciate Mose one would have to know him as we did.
Shortly after we moved to Flowers Landing we noticed that every Sunday morning
about eight o'clock a tall man riding a big white horse would pass our house
going toward West Wood. Then about two o'clock he would come back by going back
up the road toward Newell Ridge. If any of us kids were out near the road he
would tip his hat and say "Good day, Master sir".
He always kept riding and never stopped to talk. Somehow Dad found out he was a
black preacher and his name was Mose Martin. He was
so light skinned one would never have guessed he was black.
One hot
summer evening Mother, Dad and several of us kids were on the front porch.
Mother was reading a newspaper to us, as she often did on Sundays, when Mose came riding up. He rode right
up the end of the porch, removed his hat, gave a deep bow to all of us and
said,” Master Jim, Sir, it is very hot. My horse is hot and thirsty. Could we
please have a cool drink from your pump and cool awhile in your shade? Dad
said, sure you can. Just help yourself. Drink all you like and rest as long as
you wish. I was sitting on the end of the porch next to the pump. I made a
swift dash for the pump and barely beat John A. to it. We had a gourd dipper
that always hung on the pump and John A. got it. We always kept a foot tub
under the spout of the pump and I pumped it full for the big horse. John A.
caught the dipper full of cool water and handed it to Mose.
He drank it dry and refilled a couple more times. The big horse drank two foot
tubs full of the cool water.
After they
had their fill of water Mose led the big horse right
up to the front steps and said, "My name is Reverend Mose
Martin. I am the pastor of two churches. One on Newell Ridge,
the other at Tensas Bluff. Every Sunday morning I ride my horse to
Tensas Bluff and conduct church services. Then I ride back to Newell Ridge and
conduct services there. It is a ten mile ride each way. I am eighty four years
old. I sometimes wonder how long I can keep it up." Mose
rested a short while then he got on his horse and left. Dad asked him to come
by anytime, that he was always welcome.
After that
day almost every Sunday Mose Martin stopped by our
house and visited. It was on these visits that we learned about Orlando Flowers
and Norman Frisby.
The very
next Sunday Mose stopped by our house. This time he
came about one o'clock instead of two o'clock. He said he had some things he
wanted to tell us and needed more time to visit before he had to be at church
that evening. He turned to Dad and said, “Master Jim, Sir, I am an old man. I
know a lot of things. If I am allowed to talk to children like yours I can tell
them many things they would not otherwise know. They can pass the information
on to their children and know it is the truth. Do you mind me talking to your
children?” Dad said, go ahead. I would like to hear it all myself. Mose said, Thank you, Master Sir. Dad said Mose, you
do not have to address us as Master. Just call me Jim, or Mister Jim. Mose said “I have always been taught to address white
people as master. I would be more comfortable if you would allow me to call you
Master. Dad said, do as you wish.”
Mose seated himself in an old rocking
chair and started talking. The first thing he said was, “I am a former slave.
My mother and I belonged to Master Norman Frisby. My
mother was in charge of all the house slaves and she and I lived in the main
house with Master Norman and his family.” The he stopped and said, "It was
not really the main house we lived in, but a small two room house that was
attached to the south side of the main house." Then he continued.
"Madam Anna (Master Norman's wife) was very young and inexperienced. She
depended on my mother for almost everything. She often said that if she did not
have my mother to help her she would go back to Mississippi where she came
from.” With that Mose stopped talking. He sat for a
long time as if he was considering what to say next.
Finally he
said, "God has been good to me. He allowed me to be born to a good mother.
He also allowed me to be raised in the main house with my masters. He saw to it
that I was provided a good education. I was provided the same education the
Master's children were, and taught by the same teacher. God gave me all of this
for a reason. He expected me to go forth in this world and preach the Gospel.
And that I will do until the day I die.” Mose sat for
well over an hour telling us stories about his childhood as a slave. Finally
when he got up to leave he turned to us kids and said, "We will continue
our lesson next Sunday.” And so we did. The next Sunday and for many Sundays
thereafter he was always there, promptly at one o'clock, ready to tell his
stories to his new found family of children.
One Sunday
when Mose was ready to start telling his stories Dad
said, "Mose, tell me about Orlando Flowers. We
know he was an important man but we have never heard much about him.
Mose said, “Master Orlando Flowers had
more to do with the settlement and development of this area than Master Frisby. He and his family moved from Sharkey County
Mississippi to Tensas Parish in the late 1840's. This was several years before
Master Norman Frisby arrived. He established his
empire on the banks of Tensas River about one mile down river from the mouth of
Mill Bayou. He built a steamboat landing just down the hill from the cotton gin
and called it Flowers Landing. It was not long before the entire Empire was
referred to as the "Flowers Landing Plantation" By the time Master Frisby arrived into the area Master Flowers had already
carved out a sizeable plantation and was making money raising cotton. He also
raised mules, lots of them. He raised the mules, broke them to the plow and
saddle and sold them to other plantations from Memphis to New Orleans. With a
good steamboat landing, a new gin, plenty of rich land and over fifty slaves he
was destined to prosper. And he did.” With that he dropped the subject of
Flowers. He told a couple short stories about his childhood and left, reminding
us he would return next Sunday.
As time
passed it became obvious that Mose's little stories
were taking on a more religious aspect. Each story he told contained certain
morals that he often reinforced by quotes from the Holy Bible. His lessons (as
he called them) were becoming more like a Sunday School
class than a lesson in history. After Mose left one
evening Dad and Mother discussed this and Dad said, "We are all learning a
lot from Mose. The things he is teaching us are an
important part of our history. We will do nothing to discourage him."
One Sunday
morning we woke up to a cold wintry day. There was a light foggy misting rain.
The radio said it might snow. We didn't think Mose
would come in that kind of weather. We were wrong. Promptly at one o'clock he
rode his big horse into the yard. Dad told me to put the horse in the barn and
feed it some oats. Someone dragged the rocking chair into the house and placed
it near the wood burning heater. Mose pulled off his
overcoat, scarves, gloves and boots and seated himself in the rocking chair.
Mother served him a hot cup of coffee and before long he was warm and
comfortable.
Before Mose started talking Dad said, “we
have heard a lot about Norman Frisby. We have heard
dozens of stories about his entry into the big woods of the Tensas and how he
attempted to build a vast empire there. We have also heard many versions of why
and how he was killed. Can you tell us about him?” Mose
turned to Dad and said, "I can tell you all about Master Norman. I was his
slave from the time I was born until his death when I was twelve years old. The
story of Frisby is not a pretty one. I am not sure
your children are old enough to cope with it." Dad said, “my children are young but they are strong. They can cope
with anything so long as it is the truth.” Mose said,
“I am a man of God. I speak nothing but the truth. If you think they are old
enough to understand, then I will tell them about Master Norman.” Dad said they
will understand.
Mose leaned back in the old rocking chair
and closed his eyes a few moments, then he said,
"I don't remember living in Mississippi. I was only three years old when
we moved to the big woods of the Tensas. What I know about Mississippi was told
to me by my Mother and other slaves at later times. Mother said that about five
years prior to our moving to Tensas, Master Norman started selling off all of
the land and other property he owned in Mississippi and buying land in the
Tensas. When he had bought enough land to start building a plantation he
decided to move there and devote his full time to building an empire in the big
woods of the Tensas.”
“Mother said
the day we moved it was like a grand finale, or a huge parade. She said there
was a big boat landing somewhere near Port Gibson and two huge barges and two
tug boats were at the landing. Master Norman had assembled a convoy of wagons,
buggies, horses, cows, mules and everything else he needed to survive in the
big woods. She said the convoy extended from the river to at least a mile back
up the road. With the two huge barges and tugboats making trip after trip it
took all day to move the convoy across the Mississippi River. That night we
camped on the Louisiana side of the river. At the break of dawn we continued
our journey. The second night we camped somewhere on Newell Ridge west of
Newellton. Again we broke camp early and continued our journey. We arrived at
Flowers Landing around noon. Master Flowers was expecting us and had prepared
food for Master Norman's family and all his slaves. Master Norman was restless
and rushing everyone around. He wanted to reach his destination before dark. As
soon as we had lunch the convoy moved on. Madam Anna and the children, my
mother and I stayed at the Flowers home. Master Norman led the convoy down
river from the Flowers home to Fox's Landing (which is a short distance down
river from what is now known as West Wood Plantation) where he crossed the
Tensas River on a shallow shoal then north to the location where he was
planning to establish his headquarters.” Mose paused
for a few moments and then he said, "As I have said, I was only three
years old when all of this took place. This was told to me by my Mother and
other slaves in later years."
With that Mose changed the subject. He told a couple of short stories
then got up to leave. I went to the barn and got his horse. He put on his
winter clothes, climbed on the big horse and rode off.
When Mose arrived the next Sunday he continued the story about Frisby. He said his mother told him that Madam Anna and her
children, my mother and I stayed at the Flowers home about a month while Master
Norman and the slaves built the main house. She said some of the tracts of land
Master Norman had bought during the past years had houses, barns and slave
quarters on them which they tore down and used the material to build the
headquarters buildings. When the main house was completed Master Norman sent a
big boat down the Tensas River to the Flowers home and brought Madam Anna and
the rest of us home. Then Mose said, “This was to be
my home the next fifteen years which was well after the civil war ended."
Mose again reminded us that he was only
three years old when they arrived at the headquarters on the bank of the Tensas
and he didn't remember much about it. As time passed and he grew older he
learned to appreciate the skill in which the entire headquarters complex was
laid out and constructed. He explained in detail every building in the complex,
its size, shape, type of roof, and which direction it faced relative to the
main house. Every building blended with every other building to form one huge
complex. It was a most impressive sight.
Dad asked Mose to tell us about Frisby's
gold and the silver bell that is supposed to be buried somewhere in the big
woods. Mose said, "Master Jim, Sir, there was
never any gold buried in the big woods. Master Norman had a lot of gold but it
was never buried anywhere. He kept all his gold in a big brass trunk in the
main house where it was readily available to buy material for the mansion he
was building and finance the operation of the plantation. All of that talk
about Master Norman loading his gold on a wagon and he and two slaves carrying
it to the big woods and burying it is all lies. They say the two slaves dug a
deep hole and put the gold in it. Then Master Norman killed the two slaves and
put them in the hole with the gold and covered it up himself. They say he did
this to keep the slaves from telling where the gold was buried. It's all lies.
It just did not happen."
Then Mose continued, "As for the silver bell. At that time
the civil war was raging in all the states east of the Mississippi River. The
union army was on the march burning and scavaging everything as they went. Master Norman had about
a thousand pounds of silver coins. He carried them to a place in Natchez,
Mississippi that made bells. He had them melted down and made into a huge
plantation bell. He brought the bell home and hung it near the main house. He
stained it with Pokeberry juice. This made it look like an old rusty bell. If
the Union army came they might not determine it was pure silver. When Vicksburg
fell to the Union, Master Norman carried the bell deep into the big woods and
buried. It. One of the slaves that helped bury the
bell told me he marked the spot where the bell was buried by driving an iron
rod into a tree pointing south toward the spot. Then he went west of the hole
and drove another iron rod into a tree pointing east. Where the line of sight
crossed was where the bell was buried." Dad interrupted Mose and asked, "How big are the iron rods?" Mose said, "They were about half inch rods." Then
Dad asked, "How far is it from one rod to the other?" Mose said, "About forty yards.."
Dad said, "I think I know the spot you are talking about. If so, I have a trap not more than ten yards from one of the
rods." Mose said, "If you find the
rods you have found where the bell is buried."
Mose went back to his story and said,
"Madam Anna had more gold than Master Norman. She kept almost all her gold
in a bank vault in Natchez, Mississippi. When the Union Army was closing in
Master Norman, Madam Anna and four slaves went to Natchez and brought all of
the gold to the plantation. Master Norman knew a man who lived in Franklin
Parish that made his living escorting people from Louisiana to Texas. He knew
all of the roads, trails, and river crossings. Master Norman went to see the
man and made arrangements for him to escort a wagon to some town in Texas.
After Master Norman was satisfied the man could be trusted he told him the
wagon would contain a huge amount of gold. The man said if that was the case
they had better get together and do some planning. He said he would be at the
main house in a couple of days.
When the man
from Franklin Parish arrived he and Master Norman went directly to the barn
where the wagons were kept. They picked out the strongest wagon there and
rigged it for a four-up mule team. They cross layed
the floor with two by sixes and floored it with heavy lumber. They left the two
middle boards loose to be nailed down later. They called this a false floor.
They put a heavy canvas wagon cover on it. The man from Franklin told Master
Norman he would need two slaves that could shoot a muzzle loader, two extra
mules, and two extra wheels. He also needed a small amount of furniture, some
bedding, cooking utensils and dishes. All of this was provided and placed in
the barn so it could be loaded in a short time. When all of this was done
Master Norman and the man from Franklin went into the main house to talk money.
Master Norman gave him a small bag of gold coins and said the bank in Texas
would pay him the rest of what he owed when the gold was delivered. Master
Norman gave the man a bill of sale for the two slaves. With
all of this done the man from Franklin left saying, "I will see you at the
Crocket Point crossing early tomorrow."
That night
instead of going to bed, Master Norman, the two slaves,,
my Mother and I loaded the gold under the false floor of the wagon and nailed
the two loose boards down tight. We loaded all of the other things the man from
Franklin said we needed. When it got daylight the next morning Master Norman
and the two slaves left the main house headed towards Crocket Point. Master
Norman returned to the plantation late that day alone. The two slaves did not
return. The fact that two slaves left the main house with a wagon load of gold
and never returned gave credence to the rumor that Master Norman had killed
them and buried them with the gold. This was a ball faced lie."
With that Mose stopped talking. He stood up and walked out on the
porch. He stood on the porch looking across the small field. It was as if he
was in deep concentration. Finally he returned to the rocking chair and
continued talking. He said, "About a month passed and Madam Anna had not
heard anything about her gold. She was becoming worried about it. Finally one
day a letter came. It was from a bank in Texas. Madam Anna read the letter and layed it on the desk. She had a slave saddle her horse and
she rode off to the mansion where Master Norman was working. My mother read the
letter. It was addressed to Madam Anna. It said that two hundred and seventy
thousand ($270,000.00) dollars worth of gold had been delivered to the bank and
was deposited in her name."
Dad asked Mose, "Did Frisby have any
gold?" Mose said, "Master Norman kept about
fifty thousand dollars in gold coins in the big brass trunk in the main house.
When Vicksburg fell to the Union Army, Master Frisby
sealed off one side of one of the dual fire places and put most of his gold in
it. It stayed there until his death." With that Mose
got up and left, saying he would return next Sunday.
When Mose left Dad said,"I know
where there is an iron rod driven into a huge Gum tree about seven feet from
the ground. I wonder if it is one of the rods Mose
was talking about. My trap line runs right near the tree and I have a trap
setting within twenty yards of it. When I pass there tomorrow I will look for
the other rod." When Dad returned home from his trapline
the next day he said he found the other rod and the arrangement was just as Mose had described it.
When Mose arrived the next Sunday he knew exactly what he wanted
to talk about. He started by saying, "Master, Jim, sir you told me your
children were strong enough to hear anything to long as it was the truth. I am
sorry to say that what I am going to tell them is the gruesome truth of how
Master Norman died.
It was
sometime in late fall. Almost all the crops had been harvested. There was a small
field of corn near Tensas River at Fox's Landing that had not been picked.
About nine o'clock in the morning one of Master Orlando's slaves arrived at the
Mansion and told Master Norman that about twenty head of his mules had crossed
the Tensas River at Fox's Landing and were destroying his corn field. He said
if he didn't get them out he was going to start shooting them. Almost all the
slaves were already in the fields harvesting the crops. Only eight slaves were
working at the Mansion. Master Norman, the eight slaves and I went to the barn
and saddled our horses and headed for Fox's Landing. When we arrived Master
Orlando was there yelling, cursing and raising all manners of hell. Master
Norman told him to shut up and he would get the mules out of the field. We
rounded up the mules and drove them to the shallow ford where they had crossed
over. When we got them near the water they broke loose and ran back into the
corn field. This happened three times and each time Master Orlando pitched
another curse fit. On the fourth try we got the mules near the water and Master
Norman roped an old lead mule and led him across the river. The other mules
followed. Six of the slaves drove the mules to the headquarters. Master Norman,
the two remaining slaves and I went back across the river to see how much
damage was done to the corn field. Master Orlando and about ten of his slaves
met us on the river bank. Master Orlando started in to give Master Norman a
good cursing. Master Norman told him to shut up a couple of times but he just
got worse. Master Norman got really mad and rammed his horse into the side of
Master Orlando's horse. The horse fell down. Master Norman jumped off of his
horse and started beating Master Orlando with his quirt. Master Orlando
wrestled Master Norman to the ground. They rolled around on the ground a short
time. Soon Master Norman quit fighting. Master Orlando stood up and rolled
Master Norman over on his back. A huge volume of blood was gushing from his
chest and his throat was cut. Master Orlando held a hunting knife in his right
hand and blood was dripping from it. Master Orlando pulled off his coat and
spread it over Master Norman's face. Then he got on his horse and he and his
slaves rode off without saying a word. I sent one of the slaves to the main
house to tell Madam Anna what happened. Madam Anna, my Mother and two slaves
brought a wagon and carried Master Norman's body back to the main house. After
the funeral Madam Anna sent a wagon to the mansion and brought all of the tools
and stored them in the barn. She said, "We will not need them there
anymore."
Then Mose said, "What I have told you today is the Gospel truth. I was there and saw it all." Then
he got on his big white horse and left.
I again
remind anyone who reads this story to keep in mind that these are not my words
but the words of Mose Martin as he told my family and
I sixty years ago. My family and I believed every word
of it to be true then and we still believe it to this day.
CHAPTER 11
COMING OF AGE
There comes a
time in every boy's life when he suddenly finds that he is no longer a boy, but
a young man. This usually happens at a time of great significance. It might
happen when he is faced with a stressful situation that he is able to overcome
and realizes he is more grown up than he had previously realized. It happened
to me on a frog hunt to Park Break when I was thirteen years old.
Derwood and
I planned a frog hunt at Park Break. At this point I had never hunted one side
of a break by myself. It had always been that Derwood or Oliver would hunt one
side of a break and John A. and I would hunt the
other side. This was due to the fact that while John A. or I could catch as
many frogs as Derwood or Oliver we were not strong enough to paddle. Also, when
we arrived at our destination we were not exhausted. When Derwood and I left
Flowers Landing that day we traveled by boat to the cat bridge. The cat bridge
was a low water bridge across Tensas River the loggers built and used to haul
logs from McGill Bend to a Dummy line in Frisby Bend
where they were loaded on flat cars and hauled to Tallulah by train. It was
located about one mile down river from the mouth of Snake Bayou.
When Derwood
and I reached the Cat bridge the sun was still above
the tree tops. It was about two hours before dark. I asked Derwood why we
didn't go on upriver to the Fool River Shoal then walk over the hill to Park
Break which was about three hundred yards. He said the loggers had cut the
timber in that area about two years before and the bushes and blackberry vines
were so thick it would be almost impossible to get through them. He said there
was a long narrow flat that reached from there all the way to Park Break. It
was about a one mile walk but it would be better than fighting those briars.
We arrived
at Park Break about sundown. We found a good log to sit on and ate our cake and
milk. My big toe was hurting ferociously. I pulled my boot and sock off and
showed it to Derwood. It looked like an oversized plum. He didn't seem to be
concerned. When it was almost dark Derwood told me to hunt the east and north
side of the break and he would hunt the other way. He
left me sitting on the log and went off to my left. I didn't see his head light
again until well past midnight.
I was never
one to be afraid very easily but sitting on that log waiting for dark to come
had to be the loneliest I had ever been in my life. When it started getting
dark enough to light my head light the tree frogs and popping frogs opened up
full blast. I had never heard that many at one time before. They screamed about
two minutes then stopped. There was total silence. Not a single night creature
made a sound. Somehow I had the feeling something was watching me. I searched
the woods around me but could not see a thing. I was trembling all over as if I
was deathly afraid of something but I didn't know what or where it was. The
frogs and other night creatures went back to making their noises. I lit my light and started hunting. Soon the fear went away.
I hunted
north up the east side of the break. When I had hunted about two hundred yards
I had not seen a single frog. Occasionally I would hear a bull frog croak out
toward the middle of the break. I started wading into deeper water. When I was
a hundred yards from the bank in waist deep water I started catching frogs. The
further out in the break and the deeper the water the
more frogs I found. Soon I was hunting in water that was from waist deep to
shirt pocket deep. The button willows were so thick it was hard to get around
in them. Where there were no button willows there were water lilies and tall
grass. Snakes were plentiful and I had to keep a constant vigilance of them.
And my big toe hurt!
I came
across a place where two cypress logs crossed forming a deep ve. At the point of this ve was a
big frog. To get to the frog I had to go in between the two logs. The only
problem was....there was a big cotton-mouth moccasin between me and the frog. I
couldn't go around the snake because of the logs. I did a stupid thing! I
"THOUGHT" I could use my frog grab handle and gently shove the snake
aside and then pass on by. I had done this hundreds of times before and had
never had any problem. The stupid thing about it was I didn't close my grabs.
When I touched the snake with the grabs he didn't want to move. I shoved him a
little harder and he whirled around as if he was biting the grab handle. When
this happened the frog grabs tripped and caught the
snake right around the middle of his body. Then all hell broke loose! The big
snake twisted and untwisted around the frog grab handles one time after the
other. He was biting everything in reach. He tried to go under the log, then
over it. He tried to come toward me, then from me. He was putting up one hell
of a fight. Finally he slowed down a bit and I could see that the grabs had cut
deeply into both sides of his body but he was still very much alive. The water
was over waist deep and I knew I couldn't fight the snake in deep water. I
decided to take him to the bank and see if I could figure a way to get loose
from him. The only thing about that was I didn't know which direction the bank
was. I searched the sky for a star I might find to guide me to the bank. I
found one and headed out. Soon I found the bank. When I reached dry land I cut
a forked stick and pinned the snake's head to the ground. With his head pinned
to the ground, the frog grabs around his middle and my foot on his tail, I was
able to cut his head off with my pocket knife. And my big toe hurt!
After the
fight with the big snake I was exhausted. I sat down by a big tree and rested.
It was getting close to midnight so I ate my cake and milk. I dreaded the
thought of going back into that break. I knew I was close to where we came into
the break. I took the frogs out of my catch sack, put them in the tote sack and
lay them by a big tree. I guessed I had about thirty pounds. Then I waded back
into the big break. After hunting a couple of hours and not finding many frogs
I climbed upon a big log to fill my light with carbide. When I had filled the
light with carbide and water I struck the flint and it barely lit. I had lost
the tip out of my head-light!
So there I
was. Somewhere near the middle of Park Break with no light. The light would
burn a tiny bit but not nearly enough to find my way out of the break. I had
not seen Derwood's light all night. I called out to him a few times but it was
no use. The tree frogs and popping frogs were so loud he couldn't have heard
him if he had been only a hundred yards away. The only thing I could do was to
sit on the log and wait for Derwood to show up. I sat on the log about thirty
minutes and was feeling for something in my pocket when I found a twenty two
short cartridge. I remembered several years back Dad showed us how to make a
carbide-light tip out of a twenty two bullet. I decided to try it. I set the
light in front of me where I could see a little bit. I cut the rounded end off
the bullet. Then I cut about an eighth of an inch slice off of it. With the
sharp pointed end of the knife I punched a tiny hole through the slice. I put
the light out and by feeling in the dark I pressed the slice into the hole
where the tip fit. It was a tight fit and I could only press it in a short way.
With the butt of my knife I tapped it into hole. It worked fine so I continued
my hunt. And my big toe hurt!
Soon after I
fixed my light something started screaming at the top of its voice. It screamed
so loud I believe it could have been heard a mile away. My first thought was
that something had attacked Derwood and was killing him. My heart almost jumped
out of my chest. After only a few screams I could tell it was an animal. Probably a deer. It was a dreadful sound. Whatever
it was screamed for several minutes.
I was not
catching many frogs so I decided to hunt back through the area where I had
caught most of the frogs I had. I had gone only a short distance when I saw
Derwood's light coming around the north end of the break. It looked as though
he had quit hunting and was just walking out of the break. When he approached
me he asked how many frogs I had. I told him I had about forty pounds. I asked
him the same question and he said, "I may have forty pounds. I don't know
but I can tell you that whatever I have is all I will ever have if they have to
come from Park Break." Then he added, "Let's get the heck out of
here. I don't ever want to see this break again".
We went by
and picked up my tote sack and headed out. We still had about a mile to walk
back to the boat. And my big toe hurt! We caught eight or ten frogs on the deep
flat we came in on. When we got back to the boat it was still not daylight. We
cranked the little motor and headed down Tensas River. Before it got daylight
we caught several more frogs. On the way down the river I asked Derwood if he
heard the panther catch the deer. He said he heard it and it was real close to
him. He said he thought it was wolves that caught it because it took so long to
kill it. He said if a panther had caught it would not have screamed more than a
couple of times.
When we
reached home it was daylight. We carried the frogs up the hill and started
dressing them. There was nearly a hundred pounds of them. Dad started in to
brag about how many we had caught and Derwood said, "I know a hundred
pounds is a lot of frogs. I don't care if there was a thousand pounds they
would still not be worth it. If you ever want someone to hunt Park Break again
don't ask me. I will never go there again." Then he said, "There is
not another thirteen year old kid alive that would have gone into that break
alone and caught as many frogs as Jimmie did. He is not a kid anymore".
After that night I was never afraid to hunt alone anywhere.
When we
finished dressing the frogs I pulled off my boots and examined my big toe. It looked
like a huge strawberry. Bloody water was dripping from the place where I had
cut away part of the nail. I showed it to Mother and she poured some coal oil
into a pan and told me to soak it a while before I went to bed. I was sitting
in a chair on the porch soaking my sore toe when Oliver came
prissing by and asked, "What are you doing with
your foot in that pan?" I said, "My big toe hurts!"
Chapter 11
OLIVER THE TRAPPER
In the
1930's one of our main sources of income during the winter months was from
trapping. In late October or early November Dad and one or two of the oldest
boys would set out long trap lines and run them all winter. Most
of the time the only two people trapping were Dad and my next to the oldest
brother Oliver.
In 1935 when
Dad and Oliver trapped Oliver was 14 years old but he was as good a woods-man
and trapper as any grown man. Dad trapped Frisby Bend
and Oliver trapped the east side of Tensas River from Mill Bayou to Tensas
Bluff and from Tensas River to Newell Ridge. Oliver didn't like trapping that
area.
Almost every
day Dad caught more coons than Oliver and he thought it was because there were
less coons there than in the big woods.
When the
trapping season opened in 1936 Oliver insisted on trapping in the big woods.
Dad agreed to let him trap from Mill Bayou to Mack Bayou and from Lodging Bayou
to Democrat Bayou then back to Mill Bayou. This was a large area and Dad knew
it would take most of the season to trap it out. Dad didn't like giving Oliver
Lake Nick (which was then called Locus Ridge Lake) because that was where he
usually trapped the entire month of February each year.
The first
half of the 1936 trapping seasons was good. There was
a lot of heavy rains and the breaks and flats were full of water. When the
shallow flats have water you can move into them and catch more coons than in
the deep breaks. Both Dad and Oliver were averaging six or seven coons per day.
Sometime around the middle of January they suddenly stopped catching many
coons. When they had been catching six or seven they suddenly started catching
two or three coons per day. They tried everything they knew how to catch more
coons. They changed from water sets to logs, from log lets
to ground sets and back to water sets. Nothing worked. There just was not many coons there.
There was an
abundance of skunks in the big woods back then. Even though you didn't see many
of them in the daytime their sign was everywhere. If you saw a rotting log or
stump there was always skunk sign around it. They would dig in the rotting wood
and eat the grubs and other insects. They would also scratch in the leaves on
the ground and eat roots and bugs.
One day
Oliver came in from his trap-line before dark. He only had one coon and one
bobcat. By the time he stretched the two hides Dad arrived. He only had two
coons. He stretched the hides and we all went into the house and ate supper.
While at the supper table Dad said it looked as if they might as well take up
the traps and clear some land before breaking time. He said he was running a
twelve mile trap line catching two or three coons per day and it just was not
worth it. Oliver asked Dad what he thought about catching some skunks and
opossums. Dad said he didn't know if it would pay or not. Coon hides were
bringing $2.25 each. Skunks were only $0.30 and opossum hides were $0.25 each.
He said it would take an awful lot of skunks and opossums to make very much
money. Oliver said that as much skunk sign as he had been seeing he believed he
could catch a toe sack full a day. Dad said the fur buyer was due to come the
next day and they would stay home and talk to him about the skunk and opossum
hides. Maybe they could get him to pay a little more for them.
We all knew
what Oliver was up to. There was six more weeks until the end of the trapping
season and Oliver had rather be in the woods trapping than at home clearing
land.
Oliver loved
the big woods of Tensas. He was fascinated by the huge virgin timber and the
birds and animals he was when he was running his trap line. Back then we still
had the ivory billed woodpecker, the panthers, black bear and an abundance of
wolves. We also had huge buck deer, squirrels, turkeys and wild hogs. Even the
days he didn't catch much fur he often times came home excited about something
he had seen or discovered in the big woods.
The fur
buyer came the next day. He and Dad sorted out the hides and graded them for
size and maturity. The fur buyer made an offer for them and Dad wouldn't sell
that cheap. They bickered back and forth and finally settled on a price. (This
was the usual way to sell fur.) The fur buyer would make an offer he knew Dad
would not take. Then Dad would make an offer he knew the fur buyer would not
pay. Then they would bicker back and forth until they reached a compromise, which
was the right price to start with.
Dad asked
the fur buyer about the skunk and opossum hides. The fur buyer said he would
pay $0.25 for the Opossum hides and $0.30 for the skunks. Dad told him he was
considering trapping some skunks. He said if he would pay $0.40 each for the
hides it might justify them to trap skunks full time. The fur buyer said he
couldn't pay more than that. He said the only reason for him to buy them at all
was to help his customers out. He said he didn't make any money off them.
When
the fur buyer left, Dad asked Oliver if he would like to try skunk trapping. Oliver said he would. The way Oliver
saw it was if he could catch ten skunks a day and they sold for $0.30 each that
was $3.00. At that time a grown man working at any common labor job would only
make $0.65 for a ten hour day. There was a lot of difference between $0.65 and
$3.00 Besides that, trapping was a lot more fun than
clearing land.
Dad went to
town that evening. When he returned he had several cans of sardines. He said
they were going to be used for skunk bait. He opened a can and drained the
water and oil out of them. With a kitchen fork he mashed the sardines into a
thick paste. When this was done he put the paste in a pint jar and with his
finger took out a small amount of the sardines (about the size of a black eyed
pea) and rubbed it on the top of the trigger of a trap. Then he rubbed about
the same amount on the bottom of the trigger. He said that if it rained, the
bait on top of the trigger might wash off, but that under the trigger would
not. Oliver said, "It's a shame to use these sardines for skunk bait
instead of eating them. I love sardines."
Dad went to
great lengths explaining to Oliver how to catch skunks. He showed him how to find
the sign, how to set the traps, how to skin the skunks and how to kill them
without getting skunk musk squirted on him and many other things he needed to
know. Oliver listened very intently until he got down to, "how to kill the
skunk without getting squirted on". At that point Oliver interrupted Dad
and said he already knew how to kill the skunk without getting squirted. All
you have to do is to shoot them in the head with a .22 rifle and get the hell
out of the way until it died. Dad explained that it was against the law to
shoot any fur bearing animal including the skunks. He said if a hide had a
bullet hole it the fur buyers would not buy it. If a game warden found a shot
hide in your possession you would be arrested and have to pay a big fine. Oliver
asked, "If you can't shoot them how in the would can you possibly kill one?"
Dad said,
"You hit them on the back of the head with a stick just like you do coons
opossums, bobcats or any other small animal. The only thing different about
killing a skunks is that you have to hit them on the
back of the head. One swift lick on the back of the head with a good stick is
all it takes. You can use the same stick you use to kill coons with."
Oliver said, "I will have to think about this some."
Oliver was
up early the next morning. He had to walk about ten miles and change 36 traps
from water sets to ground sets. He paddled the boat up Mill Bayou to the mouth
of Dry Bayou. This was where his trap line started. From there he went up Dry
Bayou to Little Lake Nick. From there he crossed over a wide ridge into the
Lake Nick Roughs. Then he went north, up the east side of Lake Nick to Mack
Bayou. There he crossed over the West side of Lake Nick and went south all of
the way to the south end of the roughs. From there he went southeast through a
series of deep flats and small drains back to the boat where he started. It
took him two days to move all of his traps. If he came across a good coon set
he would set a trap in it.
The first
skunk Oliver caught was a big boar skunk. It had already thrown it's musk when Oliver arrived. The whole area smelled like
skunk. Oliver approached the skunk from the front end. He raised the kill stick
and brought it down hard on the top of the skunk's head. When he did all hell
broke loose. The skunk started jumping and kicking and throwing his musk
everywhere. Oliver started beating the skunk with his kill stick. Every time he
hit the skunk it squirted more musk. After about ten licks with the kill stick
he finally killed it.
Oliver
removed the skunk from the trap and reset it. He carried the skunk a few yards
away from the set and skinned it. Then he sat on a log to think. If he had to
fight every skunk he caught like he had this one he had rather be at home
clearing land. Then he remembered. Dad said "Hit the skunk on the back of
the head." The very next trap had a skunk in it. He raised the kill stick
high and brought it down hard on the back of its head. The skunk rolled up like
a ball with its belly on the ground and didn't spray a drop of musk.
Oliver
trapped the rest of the season and didn't get sprayed but very few times. He
averaged about eight skunks and three coons per day for the rest of the season.
Oliver came
in from his trap run one day and told Dad he had been seeing about twenty head
of red hogs feeding on a acorn ridge on the west side of Lake Nick. He said
there was several shoats in
the bunch that weighed about forty or fifty pounds. He asked Dad if he could
carry the little .22 single shot rifle and see if he could kill one to eat. Dad
reminded him that it was a five mile walk from the acorn ridge to Mill Bayou
and he would get mighty tired carrying a forty pound shoat that far. Oliver
insisted on doing it anyway so Dad let him try.
The very
next day Oliver found the bunch of hogs and killed a nice
gilt that weighed about forty pounds. He field dressed it and put it in the
game pocket of his hunting coat. He also put about ten skunk hides in the game
pocket that day. After about two miles of carrying the hog he began to give
out. He decided to skip the rest of his trap run and head straight home. When
he arrived at home everyone was excited about the fine piece of pork he had
killed. Dad skinned the hog and sliced a big mess for Mother to cook. Mother
heated a skillet of grease and put a hand full of the meat into it. When the
meat hit the hot grease it smelled like a skunk had squirted a full load right
there in the kitchen. There was no way anyone could eat that meat. Mother threw
the whole thing in the garbage for the dogs to eat. The dogs wouldn't eat it
either. Dad decided that if we soaked the meat over night in baking soda it
might be fit to eat. He sliced the whole hog and put in a dishpan full of water
and covered it with baking soda. The next day Mother tried cooking some more of
it. It still smelled like skunk so bad we could not eat it. Dad said, "We
all learned something by this. That is you can't mix skunk hides with fresh
meat."
John A. and
I were too young to have a trap line. We always had to help harvest the crops.
When we finished harvesting our crops we would pick cotton for other farmers in
the area. When most of the crops were harvested (about mid October) we had to
start to school. We never went to school the first six weeks in the fall nor the last six weeks in the spring. In the fall we were
harvesting the crops and in the spring we were planting and working in the
fields. Some how we always managed to pass with a
good grade.
One Friday
evening after school Dad told Derwood we were almost out of meat and that he,
John A. and I should go up Tensas River fire hunting and try
to kill a deer. We waited until after dark before we left the house. We paddled
the boat about a mile and a half before we lit the carbide light. We hunted all
the way to Democrat Bayou (about four miles) before we killed a big doe. We
field dressed the deer and returned home without a light.
From the
time we left home until we returned it seemed that every hundred yards or two
we would hear skunks scratching in the leaves on the river bank. The next day
we told Dad about all the skunks we heard and asked him if we could try killing
them with a stick like Oliver did with his traps. Dad said he was not sure if
we could get close enough to kill them without them being in a trap, but if we
wanted to try, have at it.
When it got
dark that night we were ready to go. We asked Derwood if he wanted to go with
us. His answer was short and direct. He said, "I don't do skunks."
Our first
skunk hunt was a rather short one. We had paddled only a short distance from
the landing when we found a big boar skunk. We landed the boat and I slipped up
to him and whacked him on his head. He rolled over and over and squirted musk
all over me. I had to beat him to death like killing a snake. Within two or three
hours we killed about a half dozen skunks and got squirted on each time. It
wasn't long before we decided that this was too rough. We quit hunting and went
home. When we went into the house Dad asked if we killed any skunks. Mother
answered, "I don't know how many they killed but they are not going to
sleep in my house smelling like that." She made us pull off all our
clothes and hang them on the clothes line outside. Then she made us take a bath
in cold water. That was terrible.
The next
morning Dad asked us how we could ever get that much musk on us just killing
six skunks. We explained that all we did was slip up on them and hit them over
the head with the kill stick. Dad said, "you are
not supposed to hit them on the head. You are supposed to hit them on the back
of the head." Then he added "The trouble with boys is that you can
never think to tell them all of the things they are not supposed to do."
Oliver found
an old work shoe and by using a broom handle as a kill stick and the heel of the
shoe as the skunk's head he demonstrated how it was done. He said, "If you
do it right you will not get musk on you ninety nine times out of a
hundred." He was right. We hunted skunks several years and hardly ever got
squirted on. The one percent we did get was just enough to assure plenty of
room on the school bus and a desk at the back of the school room.
When John A.
and I started skunk hunting it changed the way we arranged our personal
hygiene. It had always been that Saturday was bath day. Since we went to school
all week the only time we could skunk hunt was Friday and Saturday nights.
There was no point in taking a bath on Saturday if we were going skunk hunting
that night so we changed our bath time to Sunday. We could see no point in
having to take an old wet bath two days in a row. Sometimes, if we got squirted
on Friday night, we would have to take a bath on Saturday, and sometimes we
would even have to use soap.
In the fall
of 1937 Oliver and Derwood wanted to trap McGill Bend and Hunters Bend. It was
too far to walk from home to either place. Unless they had a camp house, a tent
or some place to keep dry and warm they could not
make it through the winter. Dad solved that problem. He took a 4X8 sheet of
plywood and made a roof out of it. Then he made four legs about five feet long.
He made some curtains out of cotton sacks and tacked them to the roof. They
were long enough to reach the ground. When he finished it made a neat little
camp house. Dad called it a camp house. Oliver called it a chicken coop.
When the
trapping season opened we loaded the little house, six dozen traps, some
bedding, pots, pans and dishes into the big cypress boat. When it got dark,
Dad, Oliver and Derwood headed up Tensas to set up camp. They paddled to the
mouth of Republican Bayou (about seven miles) and went up the bayou about two
hundred yards. When it got daylight they carried the little house and all of
their equipment about a hundred yards from the bayou and set it up in a switch
cane thicket. This was to be Derwood and Oliver home for the next forty-five
days. The only contact with the outside world was when John A. and I took them
groceries and picked up their fur. Every Friday night, rain or shine, John A.
and I delivered groceries to them. We stayed at the camp on Saturday and
carried their fur home Saturday night. We never traveled the river in the
day-time where someone might see us and figure out what we were doing.
A few days
before Christmas, Dad told John A. and I to tell them
to take their traps up and stack everything in the little camp house and get
ready to come home for Christmas. It had rained quite a lot and the river was
deep enough to run a motor-boat. Dad said tell them he would leave a boat in
Republican Bayou and when they had all of their traps up they could come home
in it. He also said tell them to try to kill some meat for Christmas. That was
the wrong thing to say to Oliver. The last day he took up his traps he carried
the little .22 Single shot rifle with him. That one day he killed about ten
ducks, eight or ten squirrels, a spike buck, two turkeys and two wild hogs. We
spent most of the next day dressing meat.
Derwood and
Oliver stayed home until the first week in January. There they and Dad went to
the little camp and got all of their traps and camping equipment and moved to
Singer Shack (which was then called the Locus Ridge Club-house). They stayed
there while they set out all of their traps, which took three days. The pack
rats were so bad they couldn't stay in the shack. They ran all over the place
squealing and fighting. They gnawed into their food and what they didn't eat
they peed all over. Oliver got a new belt for Christmas and they chewed in into
and carried half of it off and he couldn't find it. It was just too rough. On the
third day when they finished their trap-line they decided to go home.
They walked
the six miles from the shack to Flowers Landing and arrived home around
mid-night. The next morning they told Dad about the rats and that they just
couldn't live with that many of them. Dad had bought eighty acres of land at
the north end of Big Board Break that had a house on it. He told Oliver and
Derwood to go back to Singer Shack and move their camping equipment to the
house on Big Board Break. They filled their game bags with food and headed back
to the big woods. They had a six mile walk back to Singer Shack. When they
arrived they put all of their camping equipment in burlap sacks, crossed the
river and walked three more miles to the house on Big Board Break.
The house on
Big Board had two beds, several sheets and pillows, a wood burning stove and a
tin heater. It was a fully equipped camp. Compared to what they had lived in
most of the winter it was like living in a castle.
Derwood and
Oliver trapped the lakes and breaks in Hunters Bend for three weeks and Dad
brought them food and picked up their fur only one time. At the end of three
weeks they had trapped nearly every break and lake in Hunters Bend beginning
with Little Board Break, (which was across the river from the mouth of Mack
Bayou) including the Big Board Break, Clear Lake, the two big breaks just west
of Clear Lake, Grassy Break and several small breaks and flats, Harlington Break and ending with Blue Lake.
When
Oliver and Derwood were home for Christmas Oliver applied for a job with the
Civilian Conservation Corp. (C.C.C.). A letter came in the mail saying he had been accepted
and was to report to the recruiting station in St. Joseph on a certain date.
Dad carried the letter to their camp and told them to take up all their traps
and stack them at the mouth of Squirrel Tail Bayou and he would pick them up
later. The next day they took the traps up. When they arrived back at the camp
they cleaned it and threw away all perishable food. With only their clothes and
the fur they caught that day they headed for home. They walked the three miles
to where the boat was parked and paddled twenty miles home that night. They
arrived at home about two-thirty in the morning.
On the way
down the river they reflected on the winter's trapping. It had been a hard
grueling winter. First, there was the forty-five days they spent at the tiny
little camp at Republican Bayou without seeing a single person except John A.
and I when we took them food and picked up their fur.
The cold rain and sometimes sleet and freezing rain and the long trap-lines had
just about taken its toll on them by the time they went home for Christmas.
Then there was the three days they stayed with the rats at Singer Shack and the
three weeks they stayed at the camp on Big Board. All of this
time they ran long trap-lines seven days a week. It had been a hard
winter. Derwood asked Oliver if he thought he would like the C.C.C.'s. Oliver
said "It will beat the hell out of trapping."